Nairobi, Mombasa, Malindi and Lamu. By land, sea or air!

[Jeff]

Ok, so I'm being a bit preemptive but I like to know what I'm getting
into if at all possible. My mother-in-law has spent the last two
Christmases in Lamu and has decided, already, that she is going there
again next year. She has rented the house and invited us to join her
for two weeks in paradise.

When she travels there she does it first class, and of course lands in
Nairobi and then shuttle jumps to Lamu. Never really seeing Kenya. I
can't blame her though. She has been there many many times before. I
however have never been to Africa and I'm not about to fly straight to
Lamu, no matter how safe it is, and miss the rest of the continent.

So here is what I'm thinking. Everyone swears by the train from
Nairobi to Mombasa, so for the classical colonial experience I think
we should try that. Is first class really $39 per person? Once in
Mombasa, if we can, I'd like to hire a dhow and sail to Lamu with a
stop over in Malindi. Can you still do this? The last posting I saw
was for someone who had done this in 1990.

Now to go way out there, if you don't think I can find a Capt. to do
this, how much do you think I could buy a small to medium size dhow
for?

- Note: There will be three of us traveling together, my wife, her
brother and my self. All of us accomplished sailors. I've sailed in
the Atlantic, Caribbean, Gulf and Pacific. My brother-in-law races
America's cup class out of San Francisco.

The point being is that we don't want the "tour" experience. We want
to see, feel and breathe Africa.

Also, how bad is the crime really?

[Pat Anderson]

In message >, Jeff
> writes
>Ok, so I'm being a bit preemptive but I like to know what I'm getting
>into if at all possible. My mother-in-law has spent the last two
>Christmases in Lamu and has decided, already, that she is going there
>again next year. She has rented the house and invited us to join her
>for two weeks in paradise.
>
>When she travels there she does it first class, and of course lands in
>Nairobi and then shuttle jumps to Lamu. Never really seeing Kenya. I
>can't blame her though. She has been there many many times before. I
>however have never been to Africa and I'm not about to fly straight to
>Lamu, no matter how safe it is, and miss the rest of the continent.
>
>So here is what I'm thinking. Everyone swears by the train from
>Nairobi to Mombasa, so for the classical colonial experience I think
>we should try that. Is first class really $39 per person? Once in
>Mombasa, if we can, I'd like to hire a dhow and sail to Lamu with a
>stop over in Malindi. Can you still do this? The last posting I saw
>was for someone who had done this in 1990.
>
>Now to go way out there, if you don't think I can find a Capt. to do
>this, how much do you think I could buy a small to medium size dhow
>for?
>
>- Note: There will be three of us traveling together, my wife, her
>brother and my self. All of us accomplished sailors. I've sailed in
>the Atlantic, Caribbean, Gulf and Pacific. My brother-in-law races
>America's cup class out of San Francisco.
>
>The point being is that we don't want the "tour" experience. We want
>to see, feel and breathe Africa.
>
>Also, how bad is the crime really?
Jeff,
This is a very interesting posting! My husband has long wanted to go
on a dhow around the East African coast. We did live in Kenya for
several years and he never made it! We`ve been on the overnight train
from Nairobi to Mombasa many times. It`s a very worthwhile experience
and a good alternative to flying. It is quite cheap as well.
We have been down to the Old Port in Mombasa a few times and seen the
few dhows in port. Times have changed though and the dhow trade is not
what it was. It is unlikely that you will find a dhow to take you
from Mombasa to Lamu and Malindi. There are apparently strict rules on
taking tourists on boats. This is for safety reasons.
This does need more research Jeff but suffice it to say dhow travel
has changed over the years.
You will hopefully get more replies. I will follow this posting with
interest. Good Luck!
As for the crime: The people of Kenya will welcome you with open arms.
Just don`t walk around with signs of affluence or go out at night on
foot. I`m sure your mother in law will give you some advice!
Pat
--
Pat Anderson

[chris]

(Jeff) wrote in message >...
> Ok, so I'm being a bit preemptive but I like to know what I'm getting
> into if at all possible. My mother-in-law has spent the last two
> Christmases in Lamu and has decided, already, that she is going there
> again next year. She has rented the house and invited us to join her
> for two weeks in paradise.
>
> When she travels there she does it first class, and of course lands in
> Nairobi and then shuttle jumps to Lamu. Never really seeing Kenya. I
> can't blame her though. She has been there many many times before. I
> however have never been to Africa and I'm not about to fly straight to
> Lamu, no matter how safe it is, and miss the rest of the continent.
>
> So here is what I'm thinking. Everyone swears by the train from
> Nairobi to Mombasa, so for the classical colonial experience I think
> we should try that. Is first class really $39 per person? Once in
> Mombasa, if we can, I'd like to hire a dhow and sail to Lamu with a
> stop over in Malindi. Can you still do this? The last posting I saw
> was for someone who had done this in 1990.
>
> Now to go way out there, if you don't think I can find a Capt. to do
> this, how much do you think I could buy a small to medium size dhow
> for?
>
> - Note: There will be three of us traveling together, my wife, her
> brother and my self. All of us accomplished sailors. I've sailed in
> the Atlantic, Caribbean, Gulf and Pacific. My brother-in-law races
> America's cup class out of San Francisco.
>
> The point being is that we don't want the "tour" experience. We want
> to see, feel and breathe Africa.
>
> Also, how bad is the crime really?

Was there on end of November 2003 (my wife is kenyan)
Trip from Nairobi to Mombasa by train will take 12 hours, there is no
1st class and is really cheap and almost safe. You travel only by
night, there is no day trip.
You can use also a bus, which will make around 10 hours, but i don't
recommend.
Roads are very bad (i don't think u can imagine) and a lot of dust. If
it rains, it will be worse. Try any flight, it will be better.
I stayed in Mombasa for almost a week, hotels are amazing. Rental are
very expensive, so I think a dhow will cost you a fortune. I payed a
short trip with a old taxi (A 1977 Peugeot 404) around 25 USD (for not
more than 15km inside the city)
Take care of driving at night, it is not very safe.
Otherwise is a GREAT country, I was amazed...

Have a nice trip!

[Hans-Georg Michna]

Jeff,

let me add a few remarks and ideas.

I keep going to Lamu and was there again this year. It is an
interesting place to visit, although I never felt the
inclination to stay there for longer than a few days, because in
Kenya Lamu competes for my heart with the wonderful nature and
wildlife reserves, which, I think, you shouldn't miss.

As to the dhow trip, I would worry about it taking all too much
time and become rather boring, not to mention the difficulty of
avoiding sunburn when spending several days on an open boat. If
you had, say, three months to spend in Kenya, such a dhow trip
might be a good idea, but at two weeks I wouldn't be sure.

I would recommend to plan visiting Samburu and Masai Mara,
perhaps also Amboseli, and spend something like three days in
Lamu.

One possible idea would be to drop into Kenya and immediately
fly to Lamu for two days of acclimatization. Then you could fly
out for some wildlife safaris, then go back to Lamu the slow way
for some last few days. But certainly even better would be a
flexible approach where you visit Lamu briefly, then one nature
reserve, and then you decide how you spend the remaining 8 or 9
days. This may not always be possible though, but it would
certainly be best.

Hans-Georg

--
No mail, please.

[newsgroup_account]

On 27 Dec 2003 18:57:36 -0800, (Jeff) wrote:

>So here is what I'm thinking. Everyone swears by the train from
>Nairobi to Mombasa, so for the classical colonial experience I think
>we should try that. Is first class really $39 per person?

We paid a bit less than that when we went a couple of years ago, so
that's probably accurate. Another poster answered that first class
doesn't really exist, but I thought the sleeper compartments were
known as first class, and the non-sleeper ones were second class.
Maybe this is different now? Anyway, dinner is included in the price
of your ticket, and the porters will come turn down your beds while
you're eating. Not especially luxurious, but it's definitely a taste
of old-timey colonial travel. We enjoyed it.

>Also, how bad is the crime really?

In Nairobi it's pretty bad, but if you exercise typical big-city
common sense there and in Mombasa you should be fine. I'd recommend
against travelling on the roads at night in rural areas though.

My husband just got back from Kenya a couple of weeks ago, and said
prices are cheaper than he's ever seen them. You should be able to get
a lot for your money right now.
--------------------------
Visit Backpacker's Bulletin Board
www.chatarea.com/backpackers

[Pat Anderson]

In message >, Hans-Georg
Michna > writes
>Jeff,
>
>let me add a few remarks and ideas.
>
>I keep going to Lamu and was there again this year. It is an
>interesting place to visit, although I never felt the
>inclination to stay there for longer than a few days, because in
>Kenya Lamu competes for my heart with the wonderful nature and
>wildlife reserves, which, I think, you shouldn't miss.
>
>As to the dhow trip, I would worry about it taking all too much
>time and become rather boring, not to mention the difficulty of
>avoiding sunburn when spending several days on an open boat. If
>you had, say, three months to spend in Kenya, such a dhow trip
>might be a good idea, but at two weeks I wouldn't be sure.
>
>I would recommend to plan visiting Samburu and Masai Mara,
>perhaps also Amboseli, and spend something like three days in
>Lamu.
>
>One possible idea would be to drop into Kenya and immediately
>fly to Lamu for two days of acclimatization. Then you could fly
>out for some wildlife safaris, then go back to Lamu the slow way
>for some last few days. But certainly even better would be a
>flexible approach where you visit Lamu briefly, then one nature
>reserve, and then you decide how you spend the remaining 8 or 9
>days. This may not always be possible though, but it would
>certainly be best.
>
>Hans-Georg
>
Hans Georg,
Jeff`s mother in law is hiring a house for two weeks on Lamu. He seems
keen to travel by sea. We think that going by dhow from Mombasa may
not be an option nowadays. We`ve spoken to people at the Old Port in
Mombasa about five years ago and they said that method of travel
doesn`t happen now. I don`t know if you know anything different?
We just flew from Malindi to Manda and across to Lamu by local boat.
It would be interesting if some research could be done if Jeff is so
keen to go by sea. As you say, and Andy, my husband, agrees, it would
take a few days, if someone were able and of course willing, to
undertake such a voyage.
I will try to do a search, just for interest.
Pat
--
Pat Anderson

[Pat Anderson]

In message >, Jeff
> writes
>Ok, so I'm being a bit preemptive but I like to know what I'm getting
>into if at all possible. My mother-in-law has spent the last two
>Christmases in Lamu and has decided, already, that she is going there
>again next year. She has rented the house and invited us to join her
>for two weeks in paradise.
>
>When she travels there she does it first class, and of course lands in
>Nairobi and then shuttle jumps to Lamu. Never really seeing Kenya. I
>can't blame her though. She has been there many many times before. I
>however have never been to Africa and I'm not about to fly straight to
>Lamu, no matter how safe it is, and miss the rest of the continent.
>
>So here is what I'm thinking. Everyone swears by the train from
>Nairobi to Mombasa, so for the classical colonial experience I think
>we should try that. Is first class really $39 per person? Once in
>Mombasa, if we can, I'd like to hire a dhow and sail to Lamu with a
>stop over in Malindi. Can you still do this? The last posting I saw
>was for someone who had done this in 1990.
>
>Now to go way out there, if you don't think I can find a Capt. to do
>this, how much do you think I could buy a small to medium size dhow
>for?
>
>- Note: There will be three of us traveling together, my wife, her
>brother and my self. All of us accomplished sailors. I've sailed in
>the Atlantic, Caribbean, Gulf and Pacific. My brother-in-law races
>America's cup class out of San Francisco.
>
>The point being is that we don't want the "tour" experience. We want
>to see, feel and breathe Africa.
>
>Also, how bad is the crime really?
Jeff,
I`ve found a link for you to check out, which includes an email contact
so that you can get more information. Even if it`s not what you are
looking for you can get some info. and ideas!.
Good luck,
Pat
http://www.sailkenya.com
--
Pat Anderson

[Hans-Georg Michna]

Pat Anderson > wrote:

>Jeff`s mother in law is hiring a house for two weeks on Lamu. He seems
>keen to travel by sea. We think that going by dhow from Mombasa may
>not be an option nowadays. We`ve spoken to people at the Old Port in
>Mombasa about five years ago and they said that method of travel
>doesn`t happen now. I don`t know if you know anything different?

Pat,

when I was in Lamu I was under the impression that at least one
big dhow goes to Malindi to fetch soft drinks and perhaps some
other stuff.

If so then perhaps some people could hitch a ride on that dhow
if the time is right. I can't be sure, of course.

And, of course, you can always hire a dhow for the entire trip.

Hans-Georg

>We just flew from Malindi to Manda and across to Lamu by local boat.
>It would be interesting if some research could be done if Jeff is so
>keen to go by sea. As you say, and Andy, my husband, agrees, it would
>take a few days, if someone were able and of course willing, to
>undertake such a voyage.
>I will try to do a search, just for interest.
>Pat

--
No mail, please.

[Jeff]

> Jeff,
> I've found a link for you to check out, which includes an email contact
> so that you can get more information. Even if it's not what you are
> looking for you can get some info. and ideas!.
> Good luck,
> Pat
> http://www.sailkenya.com

Thanks everyone for your responses. And Pat you are correct. Much as
I'd like to spend less time in Lamu, nothing against Lamu mind you, it
is as you said a pre-planned excursion that we are just trying to
shoehorn as much "extra" as possible.

Also you hit the nail on the head. We are a sailing family and the
chance the sail the coast of Africa is one that I'm willing to go to
great lengths to achieve.

Thanks for the link. I did send him some questions and I will post
when/if they get back to me. Some interesting things that I did take
away from his site were....

1. That their normal trip is from Mombasa north and it's a beat.
Meaning that there are consistent southerly winds. So it sounds like
the way to go would be to start the trip with a flight into Lamu and
then sail south to Mombasa and then take the train.
2. Secondly he charges $850 US per person for a six-day excursion.
WOW, I could go on a seven day Carnival cruise for that price. I'm
more inclined to walk down to the docks and see what's what.
3. Everyone in Kenya has terrible HTML skills J

I may have to start a biz specializing in websites for African
business.

Thanks again for all your help and I'll be sure to post what I find.

[Peter Gower]

I think that first class on the train is two people in a sleeping
compartment, second class is four people sharing, and third class is
open compartments. Dinner and breakfast is included in the 1st and 2nd
class fares. Travel is by night (the last two hours into Mombasa is
after dawn), but sometimes the train is delayed and you will be in the
daylight - I once did almost the whole trip in light after a derailment!

Re the dhow: I don't think you will have much luck because of government
regulations, but if you are a sailor, I suggest you contact the Mombasa
Yacht Club. You might find somebody there who would welcome experienced
passengers. If you can't find a phone number , I may have one.

Having looked in the Lonely Planet Kenya guide, 2nd edition, 1994, page
278, I find that there is (was?) a standardized procedure for getting a
dhow ride. Check the latest edition to see what it says - it's under
Getting there and away: Boat.

Good luck, Peter

[Jeff]

> Jeff,
> I`ve found a link for you to check out, which includes an email contact
> so that you can get more information. Even if it`s not what you are
> looking for you can get some info. and ideas!.
> Good luck,
> Pat
> http://www.sailkenya.com


Ok, I talked with David Beavan with www.sailkenya.com and here is our
conversation. First off I had told him my situation and asked what he
might recomend

<David Beavan>
> If you just want to get to Lamu, the best bet is to fly from Mombasa. It
> is a bit difficult to cover a lot of miles north, because of the north east
> monsoon, so dhows rely on the sea breeze, unless you motor all day.
> But if you are interested in the dhow trip for itself, you can take a bus
> to Kilifi from Mombasa, and we can take you to Lamu in 2-3 days, as well as
> some the islands beyond Lamu.
> Mombasa harbour is not that attractive!
> yours
> david
>

<Me> So would it be better to fly into Lamu and then try and sail
south from
there?

<David Beavan>
>or sail more slowly to Lamu from Kilifi, taking in the Watamu marine
nature
reserve, perhaps the Tana delta.

I'm going to check into the crusing comunity and see what I can find
there.