Serbia: Greetings from Belgrade as low-cost flight route opens

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/travel/de...ute-opens.html

Serbia: Greetings from Belgrade as low-cost flight route opens
Serbia's capital is now on the low-cost flight route - and its people
are trying to present a friendlier face to visitors. Adrian Bridge
reports.

By Adrian Bridge
Published: 8:00AM BST 17 Jul 2010

People walk in the park below the city's citadel
Within the space of a few minutes wandering around the side streets of
Belgrade I am shown a mural depicting a beautiful woman; the tomb of
an ancient Ottoman warrior; a "concept store" selling quirky designer
goods that wouldn't be out of place in Soho in London; and a cool
place to stop and have a late-night coffee – the Insomnia café in the
"Silicon Valley" district.

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The bicycle diaries: Serbian hospitality
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Seasoned traveller: the truth about press trips
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Serbia: a side we haven't seen
My guide to these and many more of the less obvious pleasures of
Belgrade is Marko, an engaging university student. He is one of a
volunteer team of "Belgrade greeters" – people who introduce visitors
to some of their favourite spots and experiences in the city.
The greeter scheme – new this summer – coincides with the commencement
of a new low-cost route operated by Wizz Air linking Luton and
Belgrade. It also forms part of a campaign to alter the primarily
negative images most foreigners have of a city whose population is so
heavily identified with (and blamed for) the wars that followed the
break-up of the old Yugoslavia.
Marko – just 23 – was not involved in the wars, and we skirt around
the subject. There are references to "the difficult years", "the
1990s" and "the period of isolation". Like many Serbs of his age, he
accepts that it was not the most glorious period in his country's
history. But he wants to move on – and to be part of a project that
aims to present a friendlier, funkier – and more rounded image of its
capital and its people.
He makes for a passionate guide. "Look at this fabulous example of
secessionist [Art Nouveau] architecture," he says, as we pass a series
of grand-looking buildings on a tram ride that circles the city.
"There's another of my favourites – St Mark's Church; and another –
the wonderful faculty of engineering and architecture."
Belgrade can hardly be termed a beautiful city – its skyline is still
scarred by communist-era eyesores – not to mention the ruins of
buildings bombed by Nato in 1999. But in and around its lovely
pedestrianised Knez Mihailova zone and the cobbled Skadarlija Bohemian
quarter, there is much on which to feast the eyes. The Kalemegdan
fortress and park (overlooking the confluence of the Sava and Danube
rivers) also has a pleasing vibe.
For centuries the land around here was where the Ottoman and Hapsburg
empires battled it out for supremacy. These days tourists from the
cruise ships plying the Danube jostle for the best vantage points.
In recent years the city's youth have made a name for themselves for
partying. Much is made here of the declaration in Lonely Planet's
guide to "1000 Ultimate Experiences" that "Belgrade rocks" and is now
one of the best places to party on the planet – and the throngs of
beautiful young people and the all-night hum from barges on the Sava
and the Danube testify to it.
In addition to Serbs themselves, the clubbing scene attracts a younger
set of foreigners who like their travel to be stag and hen party-free
and to have something of an edge.
Marko's personal favourite is the Underground Club. "Mention that to
any clubber here and the heart still beats to the memories."
We stop on the terrace of one of the city's grand old cafes for coffee
with another student greeter, Katerina, and Sladjana (meaning
sweetie), an official guide. They say Belgrade could again become the
most important city between Athens and Vienna. Marko even describes it
as "the New York of the Balkans".
I wouldn't go that far. But I have been pleasantly surprised; Belgrade
has been quite an eye-opener.
Belgrade basics
Getting there
JAT (www.jat.com) flies from London Heathrow to Belgrade. Low-cost
carrier Wizz Air (www.wizzair.com) flies from Luton.
Regent Holidays (0845 277 3317; www.regent-holidays.co.uk) offers 3-
night breaks to Belgrade staying at 3- and 4-star hotels from £290 per
person (including flights from Heathrow with JAT).
Greetings
To book a free introduction to the city (2-4 hours), go to www.belgradegreeters.rs
Further information
Serbia (Bradt Travel Guides, £15.99) by Laurence Mitchell; www.serbia.travel;
www.tob.co.rs/eng

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http://www.telegraph.co.uk/travel/de...ute-opens.html

Serbia: Greetings from Belgrade as low-cost flight route opens
Serbia's capital is now on the low-cost flight route - and its people
are trying to present a friendlier face to visitors. Adrian Bridge
reports.

By Adrian Bridge
Published: 8:00AM BST 17 Jul 2010

People walk in the park below the city's citadel
Within the space of a few minutes wandering around the side streets of
Belgrade I am shown a mural depicting a beautiful woman; the tomb of
an ancient Ottoman warrior; a "concept store" selling quirky designer
goods that wouldn't be out of place in Soho in London; and a cool
place to stop and have a late-night coffee – the Insomnia café in the
"Silicon Valley" district.

Related Articles
Belgrade, Serbia: Five free things to do
The bicycle diaries: Serbian hospitality
Rare white lion cubs born in Europe
Seasoned traveller: the truth about press trips
Montenegro: Big holes and classic splendour
Serbia: a side we haven't seen
My guide to these and many more of the less obvious pleasures of
Belgrade is Marko, an engaging university student. He is one of a
volunteer team of "Belgrade greeters" – people who introduce visitors
to some of their favourite spots and experiences in the city.
The greeter scheme – new this summer – coincides with the commencement
of a new low-cost route operated by Wizz Air linking Luton and
Belgrade. It also forms part of a campaign to alter the primarily
negative images most foreigners have of a city whose population is so
heavily identified with (and blamed for) the wars that followed the
break-up of the old Yugoslavia.
Marko – just 23 – was not involved in the wars, and we skirt around
the subject. There are references to "the difficult years", "the
1990s" and "the period of isolation". Like many Serbs of his age, he
accepts that it was not the most glorious period in his country's
history. But he wants to move on – and to be part of a project that
aims to present a friendlier, funkier – and more rounded image of its
capital and its people.
He makes for a passionate guide. "Look at this fabulous example of
secessionist [Art Nouveau] architecture," he says, as we pass a series
of grand-looking buildings on a tram ride that circles the city.
"There's another of my favourites – St Mark's Church; and another –
the wonderful faculty of engineering and architecture."
Belgrade can hardly be termed a beautiful city – its skyline is still
scarred by communist-era eyesores – not to mention the ruins of
buildings bombed by Nato in 1999. But in and around its lovely
pedestrianised Knez Mihailova zone and the cobbled Skadarlija Bohemian
quarter, there is much on which to feast the eyes. The Kalemegdan
fortress and park (overlooking the confluence of the Sava and Danube
rivers) also has a pleasing vibe.
For centuries the land around here was where the Ottoman and Hapsburg
empires battled it out for supremacy. These days tourists from the
cruise ships plying the Danube jostle for the best vantage points.
In recent years the city's youth have made a name for themselves for
partying. Much is made here of the declaration in Lonely Planet's
guide to "1000 Ultimate Experiences" that "Belgrade rocks" and is now
one of the best places to party on the planet – and the throngs of
beautiful young people and the all-night hum from barges on the Sava
and the Danube testify to it.
In addition to Serbs themselves, the clubbing scene attracts a younger
set of foreigners who like their travel to be stag and hen party-free
and to have something of an edge.
Marko's personal favourite is the Underground Club. "Mention that to
any clubber here and the heart still beats to the memories."
We stop on the terrace of one of the city's grand old cafes for coffee
with another student greeter, Katerina, and Sladjana (meaning
sweetie), an official guide. They say Belgrade could again become the
most important city between Athens and Vienna. Marko even describes it
as "the New York of the Balkans".
I wouldn't go that far. But I have been pleasantly surprised; Belgrade
has been quite an eye-opener.
Belgrade basics
Getting there
JAT (www.jat.com) flies from London Heathrow to Belgrade. Low-cost
carrier Wizz Air (www.wizzair.com) flies from Luton.
Regent Holidays (0845 277 3317; www.regent-holidays.co.uk) offers 3-
night breaks to Belgrade staying at 3- and 4-star hotels from £290 per
person (including flights from Heathrow with JAT).
Greetings
To book a free introduction to the city (2-4 hours), go to
www.belgradegreeters.rs
Further information
Serbia (Bradt Travel Guides, £15.99) by Laurence Mitchell;
www.serbia.travel;
www.tob.co.rs/eng