Newfoundland & Labrador

I intend to visit Canada's easternmost province late this summer. Where
in the province I end up really doesn't matter... it is the only
province I've never visited, a situation I want to change.

(besides, no matter where there I end up, I'm bound to see interesting
places.)

I'd be travelling in September.

- How solid is the Sydney=Port aux Basques ferry schedule?
- How expensive are domestic flights between the Maritimes and St.
John's? (probably Halifax though Saint John, Moncton, and Sydney would
be possible)
- I've read conflicting reports about the status of Quebec Route 389
between Baie Comeau and Labrador City. Is this road advisable in a Ford
Focus?

--
Doug Smith W9WI
Pleasant View (Nashville), TN EM66
http://www.w9wi.com

Doug Smith W9WI wrote:
I intend to visit Canada's easternmost province late this summer.
Where
in the province I end up really doesn't matter... it is the only
province I've never visited, a situation I want to change.

- How solid is the Sydney=Port aux Basques ferry schedule?
- How expensive are domestic flights between the Maritimes and St.
John's? (probably Halifax though Saint John, Moncton, and Sydney
would
be possible)



You will really enjoy Nowfoundland & Labrador.

Marine Atlantic provides the ferry service between North Sydney and
Newfoundland. See:

http://www.marine-atlantic.ca/

And you might get some good deals on CanJet with several flights a day
between the Maritimes and Newfoundland.

http://www.canjet.com

Doug Smith W9WI wrote:
I intend to visit Canada's easternmost province late this summer.
Where
in the province I end up really doesn't matter... it is the only
province I've never visited, a situation I want to change.

- How solid is the Sydney=Port aux Basques ferry schedule?
- How expensive are domestic flights between the Maritimes and St.
John's? (probably Halifax though Saint John, Moncton, and Sydney
would
be possible)



You will really enjoy Nowfoundland & Labrador.

Marine Atlantic provides the ferry service between North Sydney and
Newfoundland. See:

http://www.marine-atlantic.ca/

And you might get some good deals on CanJet with several flights a day
between the Maritimes and Newfoundland.

http://www.canjet.com

We drove the province last summer from Virginia. Went via Maine, the CAT at
Bar Harbor, up thru NS and took the ferry to Port-au-Basque (6 hrs). Drove
around the entire island and across to the Labrador in just the southeastern
part (up to Red Bay). Came back via Argentia ferry (15 hrs), etc.
Port-au-Basque ferry sked seems to be very reliable. Argentia ferry
somewhat less so based on reports, but we had no problem. Drove in a 2000
Volvo S70T5, and had no problems at all (thankfully, because there doesn't
seem to be much Volvo service in Nfld. There does seem to be Ford service,
but you better be sure your car is in good reliable shape anyway.

Don't know about the main part of the Labrador (from the western side
through Goose Bay). Can recommend places to stay and eat, things to see if
interested. In September you'll be able to get the frsh berries ---
blueberries, bakeapple, partridgeberry, etc. Be sure to see the west
coast --- Gros Morne (stay at Wildflowers in Rocky Harbour, eat at Java
Jack's there) --- and the Great Northern Peninsula, especially L'Anse aux
Meadows viking site and St. Anthony Grenfel mission. .

"Doug Smith W9WI" wrote in message
...
I intend to visit Canada's easternmost province late this summer. Where in
the province I end up really doesn't matter... it is the only province
I've never visited, a situation I want to change.

(besides, no matter where there I end up, I'm bound to see interesting
places.)

I'd be travelling in September.

- How solid is the Sydney=Port aux Basques ferry schedule?
- How expensive are domestic flights between the Maritimes and St. John's?
(probably Halifax though Saint John, Moncton, and Sydney would be
possible)
- I've read conflicting reports about the status of Quebec Route 389
between Baie Comeau and Labrador City. Is this road advisable in a Ford
Focus?

--
Doug Smith W9WI
Pleasant View (Nashville), TN EM66
http://www.w9wi.com

We drove the province last summer from Virginia. Went via Maine, the CAT at
Bar Harbor, up thru NS and took the ferry to Port-au-Basque (6 hrs). Drove
around the entire island and across to the Labrador in just the southeastern
part (up to Red Bay). Came back via Argentia ferry (15 hrs), etc.
Port-au-Basque ferry sked seems to be very reliable. Argentia ferry
somewhat less so based on reports, but we had no problem. Drove in a 2000
Volvo S70T5, and had no problems at all (thankfully, because there doesn't
seem to be much Volvo service in Nfld. There does seem to be Ford service,
but you better be sure your car is in good reliable shape anyway.

Don't know about the main part of the Labrador (from the western side
through Goose Bay). Can recommend places to stay and eat, things to see if
interested. In September you'll be able to get the frsh berries ---
blueberries, bakeapple, partridgeberry, etc. Be sure to see the west
coast --- Gros Morne (stay at Wildflowers in Rocky Harbour, eat at Java
Jack's there) --- and the Great Northern Peninsula, especially L'Anse aux
Meadows viking site and St. Anthony Grenfel mission. .

"Doug Smith W9WI" wrote in message
...
I intend to visit Canada's easternmost province late this summer. Where in
the province I end up really doesn't matter... it is the only province
I've never visited, a situation I want to change.

(besides, no matter where there I end up, I'm bound to see interesting
places.)

I'd be travelling in September.

- How solid is the Sydney=Port aux Basques ferry schedule?
- How expensive are domestic flights between the Maritimes and St. John's?
(probably Halifax though Saint John, Moncton, and Sydney would be
possible)
- I've read conflicting reports about the status of Quebec Route 389
between Baie Comeau and Labrador City. Is this road advisable in a Ford
Focus?

--
Doug Smith W9WI
Pleasant View (Nashville), TN EM66
http://www.w9wi.com

Doug Smith W9WI wrote:
I intend to visit Canada's easternmost province late this summer.
Where
in the province I end up really doesn't matter... it is the only
province I've never visited, a situation I want to change.

(besides, no matter where there I end up, I'm bound to see
interesting
places.)


You will find some discussion on traveling for traveling's sake at
misc.transport.road . You might want to visit the group, you may find
it to your liking. Several regular posters have the goal of having
driven in every North American jurisdiction and often discuss this
subject.

- How solid is the Sydney=Port aux Basques ferry schedule?

These ferries are vital transport links and operate in a professional
manner. Check out their websites. IMHO, these boats are quite fun.
Nice and clean accomodations, if a little small. The best deal is to
do the overnight passage.

- I've read conflicting reports about the status of Quebec Route 389
between Baie Comeau and Labrador City. Is this road advisable in a
Ford
Focus?


I have never driven this particular road, but driving anywhere north of
the populated part of Canada (I read once that something like 98% of
Canadians live w/ in 100 miles of the US border) takes planning. There
are several websites on this subject, but basicly, prepare for
emergencies, take cash, drive cautiously, and remember that help, but
it the cops, a clininc, a motel, or a gas station when they needle dips
down into the red, is probably NOT nearby. If you are not in a
financial position to pay for an emergency repair and to stay laid up
waiting on the repair for a few days, don't go. If your car is old and
out of shape, don't go. But you should have no problems in a
reasonably maintained current model car. You need a detailed map with
information of fuel and lodging. Also remember that in rural Quebec,
ability (and IMHO willingness) to speak English is less than along the
autoroutes.

If you posted an inquiry to MTR you would, I am certain, get a detailed
response on that route.

Doug Smith W9WI wrote:
I intend to visit Canada's easternmost province late this summer.
Where
in the province I end up really doesn't matter... it is the only
province I've never visited, a situation I want to change.

(besides, no matter where there I end up, I'm bound to see
interesting
places.)


You will find some discussion on traveling for traveling's sake at
misc.transport.road . You might want to visit the group, you may find
it to your liking. Several regular posters have the goal of having
driven in every North American jurisdiction and often discuss this
subject.

- How solid is the Sydney=Port aux Basques ferry schedule?

These ferries are vital transport links and operate in a professional
manner. Check out their websites. IMHO, these boats are quite fun.
Nice and clean accomodations, if a little small. The best deal is to
do the overnight passage.

- I've read conflicting reports about the status of Quebec Route 389
between Baie Comeau and Labrador City. Is this road advisable in a
Ford
Focus?


I have never driven this particular road, but driving anywhere north of
the populated part of Canada (I read once that something like 98% of
Canadians live w/ in 100 miles of the US border) takes planning. There
are several websites on this subject, but basicly, prepare for
emergencies, take cash, drive cautiously, and remember that help, but
it the cops, a clininc, a motel, or a gas station when they needle dips
down into the red, is probably NOT nearby. If you are not in a
financial position to pay for an emergency repair and to stay laid up
waiting on the repair for a few days, don't go. If your car is old and
out of shape, don't go. But you should have no problems in a
reasonably maintained current model car. You need a detailed map with
information of fuel and lodging. Also remember that in rural Quebec,
ability (and IMHO willingness) to speak English is less than along the
autoroutes.

If you posted an inquiry to MTR you would, I am certain, get a detailed
response on that route.

Impressions from a trip to Newfoundland in September 2001

Bottom line: Exceeded expectations.

When to go: July and August are the most popular, but September is
lovely and even less crowded (not that it's ever really crowded).
However, if you want to see icebergs you need to go in the earlier part
of the season. You can still see a few whales and puffins in September
but there are a lot more in the summer.

Positives:
- the hospitality of the people is unlike anywhere else on earth
- accommodation is usually of better standard than you might expect, and
very reasonably priced
- smoking is much less common than expected. Most restaurants are
either non-smoking or else the people are considerate enough not to
light up inside. Almost every hotel offers non-smoking rooms.

Negatives:
- fish, fish everywhere, but nobody knows how to do anything except deep
fry or pan-fry them.
- cheap, one-ply, unperforated toilet paper
- poor selection at liquor stores. Mostly Canadian wines. Everything
is expensive. However, restaurant markups are not high. But it's
usually best to stick to beer. Locally brewed beer is excellent, but
for some reason, Newfies seem to prefer the national brands.

Things to try:
- Cod cheeks. Yes, that's what they are. An acquired taste. Try some
as an appetizer.
- Eric's Red ale (as in the Viking Eric the Red)
- Bakeapple anything. This is also known as cloudberry. It's related
to raspberries and has nothing to do with apples, baked or otherwise.
Usually made into jams, jellies and sauces, but also wine and liquor
(the berries are exported to Finland, which then distills and bottles
the fermented juice).
- Moosemeat.

Things you should do and see:
-Gros Morne National Park. Lots of trails for every level of fitness.
But you mustn't miss the boat tour at Western Brook Pond.
- Site of the first Viking settlement at L'Anse aux Meadows. The drive
up the long western peninsula is in view of the water almost all the
way, with lots of pretty fishing villages.
- "Soirees and Times" is simply a list of dinner theatres, mostly in
small towns. The shows have Newfoundland themes and the players are
usually local amateurs. Lack of slickness is more than made up for with
enthusiasm. Good value for the money.
- B&B's. Even if you don't normally like this kind of accommodation,
you should check out a few to get a true taste of Newfie hospitality.
You'll save money (cheaper than hotels and don't charge the 15% tax) and
have a breakfast that eliminates the need for lunch.

Don't bother:
The French islands of St. Pierre and Miquelon are just off the
south-central coast. People used to take a ferry in the morning, have
some good French food for lunch and come home in the late afternoon.
The schedule now requires you to stay overnight at least. The only
reason to visit these very expensive islands is so you can boast that
you went to France.

Getting there and around:
You can fly, but it's relatively expensive. Once you're there, a car
(or a guided bus tour) is essential, but car rental is also fairly
expensive, as almost nobody offers unlimited mileage, and this is a big
place. Watch for moose, especially near dusk and dawn. They are huge
and you really, really don't want to hit one.

The best way is to get there in your own car. Ferries leave from North
Sydney, Nova Scotia. Note that this is not just a suburb of Sydney.
Stay in North Sydney (the Best Western is right beside the docks) or
allow enough time to drive if you're staying farther away. The ferries
are modern and comfortable. Food is actually fairly reasonably priced,
but you're welcome to bring your own. They even have a microwave for
passenger use. The ferry to Port-aux Basques is technically part of the
Trans-Canada Highway.

Two route choices: 14 hours to Argentia on the Avalon peninsula in the
east; or 5 1/2 hours to Channel Port-aux-Basques at the south west tip.
If you take the former, a promotion in 2001 offered a free return on the
latter - but a round trip on the short route is cheaper than one way on
the long. But factor in the drive back from the east.

Before departure, be sure to fill your gas tank. Gasoline is about 10
cents/litre more expensive in Nfld.

The Trans-Canada highway from Port-aux-Basques to St. John's is built
and maintained by the generous taxpayers of Ontario and West and is
excellent. The smaller roads have a lot of rough areas although they
are paved. You will take some wear and tear on the car's shock
absorbers.

The peninsulas:
Most of the internal part of the island is inhabited only by moose and
caribou. Nfld. developed from fishing, so the humanity is mostly on the
coast.

The Northern Peninsula: That long arm along the west.
At the southern end is Gros Morne National Park, a must-see. Rocky
Harbour is a good place to stay. Drive down to Norris Point for a great
view.
You'll want to visit the Viking settlement at the northern tip. The
popular place to stay in the area is St. Anthony. The Lighthouse is the
best place to eat. You may see whales right from your seat. Go into
the lobby of the huge St. Anthony hospital for a look at the murals.
Back down the coast at St. Barbe is the ferry to Labrador. On most days
you can go over in the morning and return that evening. We didn't, but
many people said it was worth it, and that staying overnight was also a
good option.

Twillingate: This is really a group of islands north of Gander. Most
are interconnected and make for a pretty drive. You can take a ferry to
Fogo Island, whose claim to fame is that it is one of the four corners
of the earth, according to the Flat Earth Society. If you're going both
ways across Nfld., the drive along the coastal roadways, linking up
again at Gambo, makes for a nice alternative to the central crossing
through Gander. At the easternmost point of highway 330, take the short
detour to Newtown, the Venice of Newfoundland. It's built on a bunch of
rocky islands interconnected by bridges and causeways, so that the
waterways resemble canals.

Bonavista: In the town you can see a replica of John Cabot's ship, and
you can drive to his monument at the point where legend says he landed.
Along the southeast, spend a couple of days near Trinity. This town is
worth some time to explore. To the south near New/Old Bonaventure you
can check out the set used for the filming of the TV series Random
Passage. You might not imagine it, but they did quite a good job on the
place and there are guides (locals who worked on the production and
often appeared as extras) to tell you all about it.
At Port Rexton, just north of Trinity, the town has created a walking
trail called the Skerwin Trail. Allow a couple of hours and wear good
shoes. The rewards are some spectacular views of cliffs and a fine look
at Trinity from across the bay.

The northwest peninsula on the Avalon (between Trinity and Conception
bays). A pleasant drive, though not essential to visit. The highlight
may be a number of interesting town names, like Heart's Delight, Heart's
Desire, Heart's Content, and of course, Dildo. One of the Hearts is the
terminus for the trans-Atlantic telephone cable, which you can actually
see (looks like any other pipe) coming out of the water, and you can
visit the terminal building.
Harbour Grace is devoted to aviation. Just outside of town to the north
is a road that leads to the grass strip where Amelia Earhart began her
historic flight, as well as other famous aviators. You can stand on the
strip and see the view they had, but be aware that it is still used by
small planes.

Northeast, north of St. John's: Nothing of interest in this extended
suburb, unless you want to take the ferry to Bell Island

Southeast, the main part of the Avalon: this is where you go to take a
boat tour to the Witless Bay ecological reserve. You'll see puffins,
perhaps other interesting birds, and probably some whales (but no
guarantee of that). Prices vary considerably; you're better off to book
after you get there. Some operators go from Bay Bulls but it's cheaper
from Witless Bay because it's closer. Be sure you're clear on what
you're getting. Some trips go only to the island where the birds are,
others go out farther in search of whales. The operators have been
feuding for years, so don't expect anyone to say anything good about the
others. However, they will generally give you value for the money. But
don't go in bad weather. A few (like Capt. Murphy's) are more
interested in your cash than whether you get seasick or can actually see
anything through the fog.
Good B&B's in the area: Hagan's Hospitality Home, just beyond Aquaforte;
Northwest Lodge at Trepassey, with a separate entrance and washroom
ensuite. Northwest's owner, Mr. Pennell, is a lighthouse keeper at Cape
Race.

The southwest corner of the Avalon is Cape St. Mary's ecological
reserve, where you can see a variety of nesting birds, depending on the
time of year. You can walk to within maybe 20 feet of Bird Island,
which is covered in nesting gannets. The birds have no fear because the
rock is a cliff separated from the mainland so, unless you can fly, they
are in no danger.

Burin Peninsula: This would take most of the day just to drive. The
most interesting part is actually the first hour or so, with spectacular
geography unlike any other on the island. By the time you get to
Marystown it's pretty ordinary. You would think the circular drive at
the toe of the peninsula would be very attractive, but the road is
usually a short distance inland, separated from the sea by hills.
There's really little of interest beyond looking at French St. Pierre &
Miquelon in the distance.

Port-au-port: This near-island jutting out west from Stephenville is
worth a drive around for the view of cliffs.

Other places:
St. John's. Of course you can't miss the capital. But don't expect big
city hustle and bustle. Even during workdays you won't experience
traffic jams. Much of the downtown is preserved residential buildings
of various colors. Parking is reserved for the residents in many areas,
so be careful where you leave your car. Many of the homes are now B&Bs,
which have extra permits. Hotels in St. John's are expensive and away
from the center. This is a good place to stay in a B&B. Cantwell House
is an excellent choice. The Bread Pig restaurant next door offers some
of the best cooking in the province for a surprisingly reasonable
price. Tell the owner at Cantwell that you're planning to dine at Bread
Pig and she'll give you coupons good for a free appetizer and truffle.
Water Street is the main drag, but in the evenings (especially weekends)
George St. is where it's all happening.

Terra Nova national park is pretty enough, but it pales when compared to
Gros Morne.

Gander is the only significant place that did not originate with
fishing. It has the look and feel of a military base. Same with
Stephenville. No good reason to spend much time in either.

Gambo is the birthplace of Joey Smallwood, who was the main force
bringing Nfld. into Canada. There's a small park and interpretation
center, but little else.

Corner Brook may be the second largest city in the province but there's
not much worth seeing there. Maggie's is the recommended place for a
meal (everybody knows where it is). Self-serve cafeteria style at
lunch; table service in the evening. The Mamateek Inn is a good place
to stay. It's high on the hill overlooking Corner Brook and the dining
room offers a great view. Excellent breakfast included.
Drive highway 450 along the south coast of the Humber Arm inlet for a
great view.

You'll probably use up quite a bit of film taking pictures of fishing
coves. There must be thousands of them, each looking like a postcard,
yet each different. Major guidebooks list many of the prettiest, which
rarely require much of detour to see. You'll see lots of others, just
as worthy, in random drives.

Excellent overview.. We did the same trip last summer, by car (the only way,
really).

Additional comments:

New Bonaventure is also the site of the filming of much of "The Shipping
News."

Never EVER refer to Newfoundlanders as "Newfies." It's an insult (it means
"stupid" in Canadian-ese), and these outstandingly friendly and welcoming
people deserve better than that.

Happy to recommend places to stay, eat, see and related costs if anyone
wants.

"Lynn Guinni" wrote in message
...
Impressions from a trip to Newfoundland in September 2001

Bottom line: Exceeded expectations.

When to go: July and August are the most popular, but September is
lovely and even less crowded (not that it's ever really crowded).
However, if you want to see icebergs you need to go in the earlier part
of the season. You can still see a few whales and puffins in September
but there are a lot more in the summer.

Positives:
- the hospitality of the people is unlike anywhere else on earth
- accommodation is usually of better standard than you might expect, and
very reasonably priced
- smoking is much less common than expected. Most restaurants are
either non-smoking or else the people are considerate enough not to
light up inside. Almost every hotel offers non-smoking rooms.

Negatives:
- fish, fish everywhere, but nobody knows how to do anything except deep
fry or pan-fry them.
- cheap, one-ply, unperforated toilet paper
- poor selection at liquor stores. Mostly Canadian wines. Everything
is expensive. However, restaurant markups are not high. But it's
usually best to stick to beer. Locally brewed beer is excellent, but
for some reason, Newfies seem to prefer the national brands.

Things to try:
- Cod cheeks. Yes, that's what they are. An acquired taste. Try some
as an appetizer.
- Eric's Red ale (as in the Viking Eric the Red)
- Bakeapple anything. This is also known as cloudberry. It's related
to raspberries and has nothing to do with apples, baked or otherwise.
Usually made into jams, jellies and sauces, but also wine and liquor
(the berries are exported to Finland, which then distills and bottles
the fermented juice).
- Moosemeat.

Things you should do and see:
-Gros Morne National Park. Lots of trails for every level of fitness.
But you mustn't miss the boat tour at Western Brook Pond.
- Site of the first Viking settlement at L'Anse aux Meadows. The drive
up the long western peninsula is in view of the water almost all the
way, with lots of pretty fishing villages.
- "Soirees and Times" is simply a list of dinner theatres, mostly in
small towns. The shows have Newfoundland themes and the players are
usually local amateurs. Lack of slickness is more than made up for with
enthusiasm. Good value for the money.
- B&B's. Even if you don't normally like this kind of accommodation,
you should check out a few to get a true taste of Newfie hospitality.
You'll save money (cheaper than hotels and don't charge the 15% tax) and
have a breakfast that eliminates the need for lunch.

Don't bother:
The French islands of St. Pierre and Miquelon are just off the
south-central coast. People used to take a ferry in the morning, have
some good French food for lunch and come home in the late afternoon.
The schedule now requires you to stay overnight at least. The only
reason to visit these very expensive islands is so you can boast that
you went to France.

Getting there and around:
You can fly, but it's relatively expensive. Once you're there, a car
(or a guided bus tour) is essential, but car rental is also fairly
expensive, as almost nobody offers unlimited mileage, and this is a big
place. Watch for moose, especially near dusk and dawn. They are huge
and you really, really don't want to hit one.

The best way is to get there in your own car. Ferries leave from North
Sydney, Nova Scotia. Note that this is not just a suburb of Sydney.
Stay in North Sydney (the Best Western is right beside the docks) or
allow enough time to drive if you're staying farther away. The ferries
are modern and comfortable. Food is actually fairly reasonably priced,
but you're welcome to bring your own. They even have a microwave for
passenger use. The ferry to Port-aux Basques is technically part of the
Trans-Canada Highway.

Two route choices: 14 hours to Argentia on the Avalon peninsula in the
east; or 5 1/2 hours to Channel Port-aux-Basques at the south west tip.
If you take the former, a promotion in 2001 offered a free return on the
latter - but a round trip on the short route is cheaper than one way on
the long. But factor in the drive back from the east.

Before departure, be sure to fill your gas tank. Gasoline is about 10
cents/litre more expensive in Nfld.

The Trans-Canada highway from Port-aux-Basques to St. John's is built
and maintained by the generous taxpayers of Ontario and West and is
excellent. The smaller roads have a lot of rough areas although they
are paved. You will take some wear and tear on the car's shock
absorbers.

The peninsulas:
Most of the internal part of the island is inhabited only by moose and
caribou. Nfld. developed from fishing, so the humanity is mostly on the
coast.

The Northern Peninsula: That long arm along the west.
At the southern end is Gros Morne National Park, a must-see. Rocky
Harbour is a good place to stay. Drive down to Norris Point for a great
view.
You'll want to visit the Viking settlement at the northern tip. The
popular place to stay in the area is St. Anthony. The Lighthouse is the
best place to eat. You may see whales right from your seat. Go into
the lobby of the huge St. Anthony hospital for a look at the murals.
Back down the coast at St. Barbe is the ferry to Labrador. On most days
you can go over in the morning and return that evening. We didn't, but
many people said it was worth it, and that staying overnight was also a
good option.

Twillingate: This is really a group of islands north of Gander. Most
are interconnected and make for a pretty drive. You can take a ferry to
Fogo Island, whose claim to fame is that it is one of the four corners
of the earth, according to the Flat Earth Society. If you're going both
ways across Nfld., the drive along the coastal roadways, linking up
again at Gambo, makes for a nice alternative to the central crossing
through Gander. At the easternmost point of highway 330, take the short
detour to Newtown, the Venice of Newfoundland. It's built on a bunch of
rocky islands interconnected by bridges and causeways, so that the
waterways resemble canals.

Bonavista: In the town you can see a replica of John Cabot's ship, and
you can drive to his monument at the point where legend says he landed.
Along the southeast, spend a couple of days near Trinity. This town is
worth some time to explore. To the south near New/Old Bonaventure you
can check out the set used for the filming of the TV series Random
Passage. You might not imagine it, but they did quite a good job on the
place and there are guides (locals who worked on the production and
often appeared as extras) to tell you all about it.
At Port Rexton, just north of Trinity, the town has created a walking
trail called the Skerwin Trail. Allow a couple of hours and wear good
shoes. The rewards are some spectacular views of cliffs and a fine look
at Trinity from across the bay.

The northwest peninsula on the Avalon (between Trinity and Conception
bays). A pleasant drive, though not essential to visit. The highlight
may be a number of interesting town names, like Heart's Delight, Heart's
Desire, Heart's Content, and of course, Dildo. One of the Hearts is the
terminus for the trans-Atlantic telephone cable, which you can actually
see (looks like any other pipe) coming out of the water, and you can
visit the terminal building.
Harbour Grace is devoted to aviation. Just outside of town to the north
is a road that leads to the grass strip where Amelia Earhart began her
historic flight, as well as other famous aviators. You can stand on the
strip and see the view they had, but be aware that it is still used by
small planes.

Northeast, north of St. John's: Nothing of interest in this extended
suburb, unless you want to take the ferry to Bell Island

Southeast, the main part of the Avalon: this is where you go to take a
boat tour to the Witless Bay ecological reserve. You'll see puffins,
perhaps other interesting birds, and probably some whales (but no
guarantee of that). Prices vary considerably; you're better off to book
after you get there. Some operators go from Bay Bulls but it's cheaper
from Witless Bay because it's closer. Be sure you're clear on what
you're getting. Some trips go only to the island where the birds are,
others go out farther in search of whales. The operators have been
feuding for years, so don't expect anyone to say anything good about the
others. However, they will generally give you value for the money. But
don't go in bad weather. A few (like Capt. Murphy's) are more
interested in your cash than whether you get seasick or can actually see
anything through the fog.
Good B&B's in the area: Hagan's Hospitality Home, just beyond Aquaforte;
Northwest Lodge at Trepassey, with a separate entrance and washroom
ensuite. Northwest's owner, Mr. Pennell, is a lighthouse keeper at Cape
Race.

The southwest corner of the Avalon is Cape St. Mary's ecological
reserve, where you can see a variety of nesting birds, depending on the
time of year. You can walk to within maybe 20 feet of Bird Island,
which is covered in nesting gannets. The birds have no fear because the
rock is a cliff separated from the mainland so, unless you can fly, they
are in no danger.

Burin Peninsula: This would take most of the day just to drive. The
most interesting part is actually the first hour or so, with spectacular
geography unlike any other on the island. By the time you get to
Marystown it's pretty ordinary. You would think the circular drive at
the toe of the peninsula would be very attractive, but the road is
usually a short distance inland, separated from the sea by hills.
There's really little of interest beyond looking at French St. Pierre &
Miquelon in the distance.

Port-au-port: This near-island jutting out west from Stephenville is
worth a drive around for the view of cliffs.

Other places:
St. John's. Of course you can't miss the capital. But don't expect big
city hustle and bustle. Even during workdays you won't experience
traffic jams. Much of the downtown is preserved residential buildings
of various colors. Parking is reserved for the residents in many areas,
so be careful where you leave your car. Many of the homes are now B&Bs,
which have extra permits. Hotels in St. John's are expensive and away
from the center. This is a good place to stay in a B&B. Cantwell House
is an excellent choice. The Bread Pig restaurant next door offers some
of the best cooking in the province for a surprisingly reasonable
price. Tell the owner at Cantwell that you're planning to dine at Bread
Pig and she'll give you coupons good for a free appetizer and truffle.
Water Street is the main drag, but in the evenings (especially weekends)
George St. is where it's all happening.

Terra Nova national park is pretty enough, but it pales when compared to
Gros Morne.

Gander is the only significant place that did not originate with
fishing. It has the look and feel of a military base. Same with
Stephenville. No good reason to spend much time in either.

Gambo is the birthplace of Joey Smallwood, who was the main force
bringing Nfld. into Canada. There's a small park and interpretation
center, but little else.

Corner Brook may be the second largest city in the province but there's
not much worth seeing there. Maggie's is the recommended place for a
meal (everybody knows where it is). Self-serve cafeteria style at
lunch; table service in the evening. The Mamateek Inn is a good place
to stay. It's high on the hill overlooking Corner Brook and the dining
room offers a great view. Excellent breakfast included.
Drive highway 450 along the south coast of the Humber Arm inlet for a
great view.

You'll probably use up quite a bit of film taking pictures of fishing
coves. There must be thousands of them, each looking like a postcard,
yet each different. Major guidebooks list many of the prettiest, which
rarely require much of detour to see. You'll see lots of others, just
as worthy, in random drives.

Excellent overview.. We did the same trip last summer, by car (the only way,
really).

Additional comments:

New Bonaventure is also the site of the filming of much of "The Shipping
News."

Never EVER refer to Newfoundlanders as "Newfies." It's an insult (it means
"stupid" in Canadian-ese), and these outstandingly friendly and welcoming
people deserve better than that.

Happy to recommend places to stay, eat, see and related costs if anyone
wants.

"Lynn Guinni" wrote in message
...
Impressions from a trip to Newfoundland in September 2001

Bottom line: Exceeded expectations.

When to go: July and August are the most popular, but September is
lovely and even less crowded (not that it's ever really crowded).
However, if you want to see icebergs you need to go in the earlier part
of the season. You can still see a few whales and puffins in September
but there are a lot more in the summer.

Positives:
- the hospitality of the people is unlike anywhere else on earth
- accommodation is usually of better standard than you might expect, and
very reasonably priced
- smoking is much less common than expected. Most restaurants are
either non-smoking or else the people are considerate enough not to
light up inside. Almost every hotel offers non-smoking rooms.

Negatives:
- fish, fish everywhere, but nobody knows how to do anything except deep
fry or pan-fry them.
- cheap, one-ply, unperforated toilet paper
- poor selection at liquor stores. Mostly Canadian wines. Everything
is expensive. However, restaurant markups are not high. But it's
usually best to stick to beer. Locally brewed beer is excellent, but
for some reason, Newfies seem to prefer the national brands.

Things to try:
- Cod cheeks. Yes, that's what they are. An acquired taste. Try some
as an appetizer.
- Eric's Red ale (as in the Viking Eric the Red)
- Bakeapple anything. This is also known as cloudberry. It's related
to raspberries and has nothing to do with apples, baked or otherwise.
Usually made into jams, jellies and sauces, but also wine and liquor
(the berries are exported to Finland, which then distills and bottles
the fermented juice).
- Moosemeat.

Things you should do and see:
-Gros Morne National Park. Lots of trails for every level of fitness.
But you mustn't miss the boat tour at Western Brook Pond.
- Site of the first Viking settlement at L'Anse aux Meadows. The drive
up the long western peninsula is in view of the water almost all the
way, with lots of pretty fishing villages.
- "Soirees and Times" is simply a list of dinner theatres, mostly in
small towns. The shows have Newfoundland themes and the players are
usually local amateurs. Lack of slickness is more than made up for with
enthusiasm. Good value for the money.
- B&B's. Even if you don't normally like this kind of accommodation,
you should check out a few to get a true taste of Newfie hospitality.
You'll save money (cheaper than hotels and don't charge the 15% tax) and
have a breakfast that eliminates the need for lunch.

Don't bother:
The French islands of St. Pierre and Miquelon are just off the
south-central coast. People used to take a ferry in the morning, have
some good French food for lunch and come home in the late afternoon.
The schedule now requires you to stay overnight at least. The only
reason to visit these very expensive islands is so you can boast that
you went to France.

Getting there and around:
You can fly, but it's relatively expensive. Once you're there, a car
(or a guided bus tour) is essential, but car rental is also fairly
expensive, as almost nobody offers unlimited mileage, and this is a big
place. Watch for moose, especially near dusk and dawn. They are huge
and you really, really don't want to hit one.

The best way is to get there in your own car. Ferries leave from North
Sydney, Nova Scotia. Note that this is not just a suburb of Sydney.
Stay in North Sydney (the Best Western is right beside the docks) or
allow enough time to drive if you're staying farther away. The ferries
are modern and comfortable. Food is actually fairly reasonably priced,
but you're welcome to bring your own. They even have a microwave for
passenger use. The ferry to Port-aux Basques is technically part of the
Trans-Canada Highway.

Two route choices: 14 hours to Argentia on the Avalon peninsula in the
east; or 5 1/2 hours to Channel Port-aux-Basques at the south west tip.
If you take the former, a promotion in 2001 offered a free return on the
latter - but a round trip on the short route is cheaper than one way on
the long. But factor in the drive back from the east.

Before departure, be sure to fill your gas tank. Gasoline is about 10
cents/litre more expensive in Nfld.

The Trans-Canada highway from Port-aux-Basques to St. John's is built
and maintained by the generous taxpayers of Ontario and West and is
excellent. The smaller roads have a lot of rough areas although they
are paved. You will take some wear and tear on the car's shock
absorbers.

The peninsulas:
Most of the internal part of the island is inhabited only by moose and
caribou. Nfld. developed from fishing, so the humanity is mostly on the
coast.

The Northern Peninsula: That long arm along the west.
At the southern end is Gros Morne National Park, a must-see. Rocky
Harbour is a good place to stay. Drive down to Norris Point for a great
view.
You'll want to visit the Viking settlement at the northern tip. The
popular place to stay in the area is St. Anthony. The Lighthouse is the
best place to eat. You may see whales right from your seat. Go into
the lobby of the huge St. Anthony hospital for a look at the murals.
Back down the coast at St. Barbe is the ferry to Labrador. On most days
you can go over in the morning and return that evening. We didn't, but
many people said it was worth it, and that staying overnight was also a
good option.

Twillingate: This is really a group of islands north of Gander. Most
are interconnected and make for a pretty drive. You can take a ferry to
Fogo Island, whose claim to fame is that it is one of the four corners
of the earth, according to the Flat Earth Society. If you're going both
ways across Nfld., the drive along the coastal roadways, linking up
again at Gambo, makes for a nice alternative to the central crossing
through Gander. At the easternmost point of highway 330, take the short
detour to Newtown, the Venice of Newfoundland. It's built on a bunch of
rocky islands interconnected by bridges and causeways, so that the
waterways resemble canals.

Bonavista: In the town you can see a replica of John Cabot's ship, and
you can drive to his monument at the point where legend says he landed.
Along the southeast, spend a couple of days near Trinity. This town is
worth some time to explore. To the south near New/Old Bonaventure you
can check out the set used for the filming of the TV series Random
Passage. You might not imagine it, but they did quite a good job on the
place and there are guides (locals who worked on the production and
often appeared as extras) to tell you all about it.
At Port Rexton, just north of Trinity, the town has created a walking
trail called the Skerwin Trail. Allow a couple of hours and wear good
shoes. The rewards are some spectacular views of cliffs and a fine look
at Trinity from across the bay.

The northwest peninsula on the Avalon (between Trinity and Conception
bays). A pleasant drive, though not essential to visit. The highlight
may be a number of interesting town names, like Heart's Delight, Heart's
Desire, Heart's Content, and of course, Dildo. One of the Hearts is the
terminus for the trans-Atlantic telephone cable, which you can actually
see (looks like any other pipe) coming out of the water, and you can
visit the terminal building.
Harbour Grace is devoted to aviation. Just outside of town to the north
is a road that leads to the grass strip where Amelia Earhart began her
historic flight, as well as other famous aviators. You can stand on the
strip and see the view they had, but be aware that it is still used by
small planes.

Northeast, north of St. John's: Nothing of interest in this extended
suburb, unless you want to take the ferry to Bell Island

Southeast, the main part of the Avalon: this is where you go to take a
boat tour to the Witless Bay ecological reserve. You'll see puffins,
perhaps other interesting birds, and probably some whales (but no
guarantee of that). Prices vary considerably; you're better off to book
after you get there. Some operators go from Bay Bulls but it's cheaper
from Witless Bay because it's closer. Be sure you're clear on what
you're getting. Some trips go only to the island where the birds are,
others go out farther in search of whales. The operators have been
feuding for years, so don't expect anyone to say anything good about the
others. However, they will generally give you value for the money. But
don't go in bad weather. A few (like Capt. Murphy's) are more
interested in your cash than whether you get seasick or can actually see
anything through the fog.
Good B&B's in the area: Hagan's Hospitality Home, just beyond Aquaforte;
Northwest Lodge at Trepassey, with a separate entrance and washroom
ensuite. Northwest's owner, Mr. Pennell, is a lighthouse keeper at Cape
Race.

The southwest corner of the Avalon is Cape St. Mary's ecological
reserve, where you can see a variety of nesting birds, depending on the
time of year. You can walk to within maybe 20 feet of Bird Island,
which is covered in nesting gannets. The birds have no fear because the
rock is a cliff separated from the mainland so, unless you can fly, they
are in no danger.

Burin Peninsula: This would take most of the day just to drive. The
most interesting part is actually the first hour or so, with spectacular
geography unlike any other on the island. By the time you get to
Marystown it's pretty ordinary. You would think the circular drive at
the toe of the peninsula would be very attractive, but the road is
usually a short distance inland, separated from the sea by hills.
There's really little of interest beyond looking at French St. Pierre &
Miquelon in the distance.

Port-au-port: This near-island jutting out west from Stephenville is
worth a drive around for the view of cliffs.

Other places:
St. John's. Of course you can't miss the capital. But don't expect big
city hustle and bustle. Even during workdays you won't experience
traffic jams. Much of the downtown is preserved residential buildings
of various colors. Parking is reserved for the residents in many areas,
so be careful where you leave your car. Many of the homes are now B&Bs,
which have extra permits. Hotels in St. John's are expensive and away
from the center. This is a good place to stay in a B&B. Cantwell House
is an excellent choice. The Bread Pig restaurant next door offers some
of the best cooking in the province for a surprisingly reasonable
price. Tell the owner at Cantwell that you're planning to dine at Bread
Pig and she'll give you coupons good for a free appetizer and truffle.
Water Street is the main drag, but in the evenings (especially weekends)
George St. is where it's all happening.

Terra Nova national park is pretty enough, but it pales when compared to
Gros Morne.

Gander is the only significant place that did not originate with
fishing. It has the look and feel of a military base. Same with
Stephenville. No good reason to spend much time in either.

Gambo is the birthplace of Joey Smallwood, who was the main force
bringing Nfld. into Canada. There's a small park and interpretation
center, but little else.

Corner Brook may be the second largest city in the province but there's
not much worth seeing there. Maggie's is the recommended place for a
meal (everybody knows where it is). Self-serve cafeteria style at
lunch; table service in the evening. The Mamateek Inn is a good place
to stay. It's high on the hill overlooking Corner Brook and the dining
room offers a great view. Excellent breakfast included.
Drive highway 450 along the south coast of the Humber Arm inlet for a
great view.

You'll probably use up quite a bit of film taking pictures of fishing
coves. There must be thousands of them, each looking like a postcard,
yet each different. Major guidebooks list many of the prettiest, which
rarely require much of detour to see. You'll see lots of others, just
as worthy, in random drives.