Finally going to Japan!

In article , Lori Lee
wrote:

My husband has finally gotten himself invited on a business trip to
Tokyo. Naturally, I am tagging along. For him, the first 3 days and
nights are strictly business, so I am on my own, which for me means a
Japanese food tour. Primarily sushi, but also interested in ramen,
gyoza, anything, everything. After business is done we will spend 2
nights in Kyoto, then 3 more nights in Tokyo sightseeing, shopping,
eating.

I have planned to visit Tsukiji market on my own one morning for the
auction followed by a sushi fix (Sushi Bun?). Aside from that I am
clueless. Looking for suggestions for great sushi, or any other great
dining (fugu meal? unagi meal?). Any must see sights, or can't miss
experience.

Do you speak even a little bit of Japanese? It's helpful to learn the
basic phrases, "may I have..." "what is this..." "where is the..."
"another, please." "what do you recommend" and so forth.

I have about 50 books on Japan, Japanese food, city guides, etc. I'd
recommend "What's What in Japanese Restaurants" by Satterwhite. And
World Food - Japan, a Lonely Planet publication. Having traveled to
Japan, purely for food and exploration, on four occasions (hopefully
going again in October), I have a real mind-set about dining in Japan.

I would recommend you go to the library, pull down every single travel
guide (I think Frommer's is pretty good all-around) and dig through
their dining recommendations. Stunningly, a lot of them simply tell
you where to find Chineses, Italian, French and "American" cuisine. I
have no idea why. Others give you some interesting tips. Xerox all of
it.

They might have such publications as "Tokyo-Q 2001-2002", or a newer
incarnation. Go to the dining section, xerox the pages. Or "Tokyo,
Knopf City Guide" which is a pretty lousy book, but has interesting
dining recommendations and 8 or 10 things you'd otherwise never find.
And so forth. Cull them all--some restaurants will be out of business
or too far away from where you're staying. "Kansai Time Out" is a
monthly magazine in the Kyoto/Osaka area which is worthwhile. Pick one
up as soon as you hit Kyoto at the tourist place across the street from
the train station. KTO has published a few books with suggestions.
Website below. In googling I find there is a Tokyo Time Out too.

There are the daily/weekly papers in English, which usually have the
hip joints du jour:

http://www.nokia.co.jp/tokyoq/
http://www.metropolis.co.jp/
http://mdn.mainichi.co.jp/
http://www.japantoday.com/e
http://www.asahi.com/english/english.html
http://www.japantimes.com/
http://www.kto.co.jp/

Do you know what areas of Kyoto and Tokyo you'll be staying in? That
might help.

We've developed a sixth sense in selecting restaurants as we wander by,
and are almost always pleased. It's particularly difficult to
recommend that people avoid the plastic-food places and stumble into
restaurants only vaguely marked, particularly when your ability with
the language is slim (as is the case with us), but it's a great
adventure. We've never been taken advantage of financially though we
did tab out at about $140 one night--one of the greatest dining
occasions in life: Ken in Morioka. We've never encountered crime nor
the even the fear of it.

Do you have any limitations in your dining? Any at all?

I'd also recommend you haunt rec.travel.asia, fj.life.in-japan,
soc.culture.japan. As you might imagine there the unsavory element,
but if you sort it out you can find a couple of knowledgeable and
helpful people, particularly in the rec.travel grouping (to which I've
cross-posted).

--
"A Dictionary of Japanese Food, Ingredients & Culture" by Richard Hosking
(Tuttle, '97). All the hints one might need for exploring Japanese food.

"The Sake Handbook" by John Gaunter (Tuttle, '02). An excellent intro and
reference to sake.

On Thu, 27 Jul 2006 07:36:59 -0700, Gerry
wrote:

Thanks much for the input.

In article , Lori Lee
wrote:

My husband has finally gotten himself invited on a business trip to
Tokyo. Naturally, I am tagging along. For him, the first 3 days and
nights are strictly business, so I am on my own, which for me means a
Japanese food tour. Primarily sushi, but also interested in ramen,
gyoza, anything, everything. After business is done we will spend 2
nights in Kyoto, then 3 more nights in Tokyo sightseeing, shopping,
eating.

I have planned to visit Tsukiji market on my own one morning for the
auction followed by a sushi fix (Sushi Bun?). Aside from that I am
clueless. Looking for suggestions for great sushi, or any other great
dining (fugu meal? unagi meal?). Any must see sights, or can't miss
experience.

Do you speak even a little bit of Japanese? It's helpful to learn the
basic phrases, "may I have..." "what is this..." "where is the..."
"another, please." "what do you recommend" and so forth.

Yes, I speak sushi, and enough polite phrases to get by.

I have about 50 books on Japan, Japanese food, city guides, etc. I'd
recommend "What's What in Japanese Restaurants" by Satterwhite. And
World Food - Japan, a Lonely Planet publication. Having traveled to
Japan, purely for food and exploration, on four occasions (hopefully
going again in October), I have a real mind-set about dining in Japan.

You remind me I do have the Satterwhite, great reference.

I would recommend you go to the library, pull down every single travel
guide (I think Frommer's is pretty good all-around) and dig through
their dining recommendations. Stunningly, a lot of them simply tell
you where to find Chineses, Italian, French and "American" cuisine. I
have no idea why. Others give you some interesting tips. Xerox all of
it.

I have picked up the Frommer & Time Out Tokyo.

They might have such publications as "Tokyo-Q 2001-2002", or a newer
incarnation. Go to the dining section, xerox the pages. Or "Tokyo,
Knopf City Guide" which is a pretty lousy book, but has interesting
dining recommendations and 8 or 10 things you'd otherwise never find.
And so forth. Cull them all--some restaurants will be out of business
or too far away from where you're staying. "Kansai Time Out" is a
monthly magazine in the Kyoto/Osaka area which is worthwhile. Pick one
up as soon as you hit Kyoto at the tourist place across the street from
the train station. KTO has published a few books with suggestions.
Website below. In googling I find there is a Tokyo Time Out too.

There are the daily/weekly papers in English, which usually have the
hip joints du jour:

http://www.nokia.co.jp/tokyoq/
http://www.metropolis.co.jp/
http://mdn.mainichi.co.jp/
http://www.japantoday.com/e
http://www.asahi.com/english/english.html
http://www.japantimes.com/
http://www.kto.co.jp/

Do you know what areas of Kyoto and Tokyo you'll be staying in? That
might help.

Imperial Hotel (Ginza) & Hyatt Regency (not far from Kyoto station?)

We've developed a sixth sense in selecting restaurants as we wander by,
and are almost always pleased. It's particularly difficult to
recommend that people avoid the plastic-food places and stumble into
restaurants only vaguely marked, particularly when your ability with
the language is slim (as is the case with us), but it's a great
adventure. We've never been taken advantage of financially though we
did tab out at about $140 one night--one of the greatest dining
occasions in life: Ken in Morioka. We've never encountered crime nor
the even the fear of it.

Do you have any limitations in your dining? Any at all?

I eat or will try anything. Husband a little more strange food shy,
but a food sport. Wouldn't want a greatly expensive meal each night,
but a couple of worthwhile splurges would be fine.

I'd also recommend you haunt rec.travel.asia, fj.life.in-japan,
soc.culture.japan. As you might imagine there the unsavory element,
but if you sort it out you can find a couple of knowledgeable and
helpful people, particularly in the rec.travel grouping (to which I've
cross-posted).

Thanks again,
Lori
Remove "No Spam" from e-mail address before replying

Lori Lee wrote:
On Thu, 27 Jul 2006 07:36:59 -0700, Gerry
wrote:

Thanks much for the input.

In article , Lori Lee
wrote:

My husband has finally gotten himself invited on a business trip to
Tokyo. Naturally, I am tagging along. For him, the first 3 days and
nights are strictly business, so I am on my own, which for me means a
Japanese food tour. Primarily sushi, but also interested in ramen,
gyoza, anything, everything. After business is done we will spend 2
nights in Kyoto, then 3 more nights in Tokyo sightseeing, shopping,
eating.

I have planned to visit Tsukiji market on my own one morning for the
auction followed by a sushi fix (Sushi Bun?). Aside from that I am
clueless. Looking for suggestions for great sushi, or any other great
dining (fugu meal? unagi meal?). Any must see sights, or can't miss
experience.

For traditional sushi, there are a lot of excellent, relatively
inexpensive places around Higashi-Ginza station. The sky is really the
limit when it comes to sushi prices in Tokyo, but you can get excellent
stuff for around $30 US per person in the Higashi-Ginza area.

Sushi Q in Roppongi and Rainbow Roll Sushi in Azabu-Juban are good
places to try modern sushi. Sushi Q uses an actual blowtorch for
certain dishes.

You should have a sukiyaki meal at least once (Japanese beef cooked in
a sweet broth). The restaurant Yoshihachi in Moto-Akasaka is one of
the best beef restaurants in all of Japan, and while it is around $200
for dinner they have a $20 weekday lunch special that serves
essentially the same thing.

Tempura (seafood and vegetables cooked in a light flaky batter) is also
a must. Ten-Ichi is the famous tempura restaurant, and will run you
about $75 per person. They have a cheaper branch called "Ten-Ichi
Deux" which is about $25 per person and is a good place to try tempura.

Kaiseki is Japan's haute cuisine consisting of a three-hour sequence of
about 20 tiny courses, most of which are vegan. It usually costs
upwards of $100 in Tokyo. You might try it in Kyoto.

Don't miss the food floors of Japanese department stores, which have
luxury foods from all over the world and give out free samples. The
best one is Bunkamura in Shibuya.

If you want a decidedly not high cuisine experiences that are uniquely
Japanese, try kaiten sushi (the sushi chefs are in the center of the
room, and a conveyer belt runs through the room carrying the sushi and
you just take whatever you want) and izakayas (Japanese bars that serve
food). The east side of Shinjuku is a good place to find kaiten sushi.

In article , Lori Lee
wrote:

Do you speak even a little bit of Japanese? It's helpful to learn the
basic phrases, "may I have..." "what is this..." "where is the..."
"another, please." "what do you recommend" and so forth.

Yes, I speak sushi, and enough polite phrases to get by.

I've found, regardless or where or when, that to simply *try* to say a
phrase or two, however little utility or inept it may be, is an amazing
chit for "equalizing" with others. Normally they have to do all the
heavy lifting and that phrase acknowledges the labor of speaking in
another's language and so much more.

That fact that you simply attempt their language makes you okay
somehow. Last night in a Lebanese restaurant I asked in Arabic if they
had red wine ("andukum nibeet ahmar"). I had learned it three minutes
before in the car from one of about 20 phrase books I keep in the
glovebox. I was wearing a flag of Lebanon on a lapel pin. I
immediately said, "Did I say that right?". His eyes lit up like the
fourth of July and said yes I had said it right. He thought for a
moment and then said, "I have something special you'll like." And
brought us a bottle of wine that his brother brought back which won
some award. It was exceptional. That's not what they guy at the booth
next to me got.

Long before the current Lebanese horror I had a pill-vial full of pins
with 30 countries' flags in that glovebox. They might as well be a
secret handshake. I never see any American's eyes flit down to note
it--I always see nationals from elsewhere look.

You remind me I do have the Satterwhite, great reference.

I read katakana and hirigana (the syllabary that doesn't include kanji
proper). One can learn it pretty quickly from flash cards. You can do
it on the plane over. I also know 50-60 kanji (learned the same way).
This is mostly to navigate menus and street signs. In Satterwhite he
gives a fair amount of attention to such signs/menus. I scanned a few
pages and enlarged to make it more useful.

But his lists also helps in selecting restaurants on the street or
following what I think of as a more "advanced" food-pursuit: heading up
the elevators in vaguely marked buildings with little but kana to guide
you. As some have carped about Tokyo, everything interesting is
upstairs somewhere, and can't be seen from the street. Admittedly it
is daunting for those who can't speak the language--which is how I view
myself. Daunting? No, it's downright scary. But I've encountered
nothing but good in the process. No matter what anybody says
(particularly the Japanese) there is no crime in Japan. It doesn't
exist. It exists the way the "Elephant Man" disease exists.

In the process we've headed into "snack bars" which, however much in
the noble but now-humbled geisha tradition, are still joints were there
are 8 women "entertain" and guys are buying expensive "champagne"
(actually soda) for them and there is a tawdry but refined air. No
longer singing or playing board games the not-geisha's are still
flattering and merriment-producing. These were clearlly accidental
wanderings but we were greeted like royalty and had a fabulous time! I
think witth the worst navigational equipment you'll find neither rocky
shores nor sandbars.

Do you know what areas of Kyoto and Tokyo you'll be staying in? That
might help.

Imperial Hotel (Ginza) & Hyatt Regency (not far from Kyoto station?)

Yikes. The Ginza is one of the areas I've not explored in Tokyo because
of (purported) expense and expanse. I've wandered around there but I
feel like I'm in Chicago or LA, so very urban and somewhat cold. Of
course the Imperial Gardens and other fabulous sights are available
there. If you spend time in Asakusa or Ueno you will find many
delightful and humble restaurants. These are the areas we usually
haunt. We also chow-hound it through restaurants in Shinjuku and
Shibuya but not from books. We "walk and gawk": making mental notes,
then return to what looks good. Sometimes it's French or Turkish.
Sometimes it's up-the-middle Japanese cuisine. it's always good.

Relative to accompdations, if circumstances change and an opportunity
to stay at a ryokan pops up, it can be a lot of fun and provide some
atmosphere you might enjoy.

We've never been taken advantage of financially though we
did tab out at about $140 one night--one of the greatest dining
occasions in life: Ken in Morioka. We've never encountered crime nor
the even the fear of it.

Do you have any limitations in your dining? Any at all?

I eat or will try anything. Husband a little more strange food shy,
but a food sport. Wouldn't want a greatly expensive meal each night,
but a couple of worthwhile splurges would be fine.

We eat blind-of-the-bill almost always (a total of over two months on
tour). This in 20+ towns and cities. We have only rarely found a
greatly expensive meal (three times?). Certainly such places can be
found, but we haven't really looked for them. Nor have we looked for
sushi. Mostly we look for izakaya and kappo, where there is the
requisite sashimi and many marvels. Also yakimono restaurants (check
"Agatha" in Kyoto off Kawaramachi Dori, if you get a chance). Also
there is an extremely humble 10-stool joint across the street from the
Miiyako hotel in Kyoto. It's the only restaurant on the block. Take
whatever's good. Our first encounter with fresh-roasted ginko nuts in
the shell with coarse sea salt.

A method we've recently begun developing: We wander in nicer urban
areas until we find a regulation up-scale "bar", no food options. By
this I mean an elegant, place with a discreet sign and a lovely door.
We stick our head in and look for a moment--NEVER be afraid to do this
as you'll just miss too much of Japan. In but a few seconds you'll
know 80% of what you want to know about the place.

Anyway we find a bar that is not over-populated, excellent lighting,
expensive furniture, well-starched and coffed bartenders etc. Clearly
our traditional martini and manhattan will cost us about $10 or $12
bucks. And there is frequently a "table charge" of the same. Don't
balk, it's to keep the riff-raff out. *Sit at the bar*. Sit close
to--not far from--other patrons. We chit-chat with the bartenders in
English, or our broken Japanese. We have gotten into fragmented
Spanish, French and German too!

Frequently people will quiet down when we sit. They are listening to
everything we say to one another. So speak clearly among yourselves and
don't whisper. They all studied English during school, and are hunting
for an opportunity and the courage to engage you in English. Throw as
much Japanese-related musing around. "Nancy, do you remember how to
say 'I'm happy' in Japanese." "I wonder what years Hideyoshi lived."
"Exactly what years *are* showa?" And then you'll hear, "Excuse,
please. May I help you?" This is how it works. The next thing you
know you're finding out about all the coolest places, what's hot,
what's not. A number of times people fought over paying our tab.

After a very casual drink's conclusion we ask for the bartender's
recommendation for a place to dine. He asks what kind of food, and we
say "izakaya, kappo, whatever you think is very Japanese and very
good". And we are quick to point out we have no limits, but want
"something different".

He scratches his head, talks it over with others, somebody gets excited
then he tells us where. On a number of occasions they have walked us
over to the restaurant personally (!), once with an umbrella in the
rain!! On another occasion (Yoshida's Bar in Osaka--bless her!) she
drew us an intricate map. ALL such places could never be found from
the street.

Nancy reminds me: The making of a cocktail alone is worth the price.
They have a very particular motion of activity: They poor a shot of
vermouth and put a speared olive into it, for example. They pour the
bourbon, they wipe the mouth of the bottle with a clean white cloth,
set it down in front of you--and *then* turn it so that the label faces
you. No matter the width of the bar or their proximity to you, they
set down the completed cocktail, pause, then push it the remaining 2-6
inches towards you. Remind you of anything? Yes, this is as close to a
real-world example of the ethic of the tea ceremony you are likely to
see. It is a dance, it is a floor show. One should *acknowledge" the
drink preparation, respect it, relaxe into it. It is magic. And the
nuts-and-pretzels? You'll never find better. If you read about the tea
ceremony, apply all you know to the occasion. The season. The moment.
Do not speak about work or the noise of the vain world outside.

The bartender's recommendations in Sendai, Morioka and Osaka,
particularly, were the best restaurants we've ever eaten at, none of it
a zoological slog, all of it quite accessible and understandable. A
"strange food-shy" person would have sighed in relief. Clearly I could
go on for hours about the specifics. But the point is that the
"barmen's challenge" is currently one of our favorite tools.

Returning to the "speak loud and clearly" approach: Once in a mad-house
of an Italian restaurant (in Shinjuku) the waiter threw us at a table
close to another (which immediately went silent) with an entirely kanji
menu and provided no help as he was swamped. We mused outloud that we
could make no sense of it. Eventually I was closing my eyes, swirling
my finger in the air and random-picking food as a joke. Helpful sign
language as the woman next us was then quick to ask if she could help
us. God did she help us! We had amazing food (so good we hunted the
place down the next time we were in town, one of the few places we have
ever returned). And she was a charming dinner companion.

In this similar way we have made a number of bona-fide friends.
Clearly they all speak pretty good English. Two have come to visit us
in the States. Two invited us into their homes. I realize that one
cannot be shy, per se, to accomplish this. So have courage! Be shy
when you get back home. There's only a moment there when it may
discomfort, and it is for more courageous for your Japanese
counterpart.

Failing these more personal or idiosyncratic angles, in a nice
western-style hotel you can certainly use a concierge. Avoid the
clerks. If they hesitate, wait for the guy who "really knows" whoever
that might be. But I would recommend you avoid asking about sushi. A
sushi bar in Japan, generally is not such a special thing and is
usually quite specific. It's frequently lunch or casual hurry-up food.
An overstatement--but I find it much more anonymous than in the USA
where it seems so very personal.

On the other hand in most kappo or izakaya places there is great
sashimi (and sometimes sushi) to be had so very much more. Read up on
Satterwaite's viewpoints and try all you can. We never ate in a
bona-fide fugu place. I noted a number in Asakusa, but Nancy was
curiously reluctant. We did have deep-fried butter-flied fugu in
Fukuoka (there's a foodie paradise), before we realized what it was.
That venture, as so many, was completely "omakase".

I find there is omakase and then there is omakase. I've had a rocket
to the moon on a few occasions and then witnessed another gaijin get
the most conservative route imaginable. Why? I think much of it is
body-language, perceived enthusiasm, and such as attempted Japanese
phrases. We always provide eye-contact, smile and acknowledge
everyone, body language is "open". No nervous eye-flitting, no visual
indicators of suspicion. Though not in the states, we always sit where
ever the most people are. Failing that, the closest to the employee's
station. We tell them the only things we don't like: natto! Big
laugh--then we ask for anything that is known in [insert region or
town]. We ask for anything particularly good during [season]. We
flatter unmercifully.

Clearly I've said too much. I'm a fast typist. When are you scheduled
to be there?

--
"A Dictionary of Japanese Food, Ingredients & Culture" by Richard Hosking
(Tuttle, '97). All the hints one might need for exploring Japanese food.

"The Sake Handbook" by John Gaunter (Tuttle, '02). An excellent intro and
reference to sake.

On Fri, 28 Jul 2006 13:51:05 -0400, Gerry
you have some amazingly creative ideas here


That fact that you simply attempt their language makes you okay
somehow. Last night in a Lebanese restaurant I asked in Arabic if they
had red wine ("andukum nibeet ahmar"). I had learned it three minutes
before in the car from one of about 20 phrase books I keep in the
glovebox. I was wearing a flag of Lebanon on a lapel pin. I
immediately said, "Did I say that right?". His eyes lit up like the
fourth of July and said yes I had said it right. He thought for a
moment and then said, "I have something special you'll like." And
brought us a bottle of wine that his brother brought back which won
some award. It was exceptional. That's not what they guy at the booth
next to me got.

Long before the current Lebanese horror I had a pill-vial full of pins
with 30 countries' flags in that glovebox. They might as well be a
secret handshake. I never see any American's eyes flit down to note
it--I always see nationals from elsewhere look.

But the americans sure know how to keep the Terror Flags Colors straight.


You remind me I do have the Satterwhite, great reference.

I read katakana and hirigana (the syllabary that doesn't include kanji
proper). One can learn it pretty quickly from flash cards. You can do
it on the plane over. I also know 50-60 kanji (learned the same way).
This is mostly to navigate menus and street signs. In Satterwhite he
gives a fair amount of attention to such signs/menus. I scanned a few
pages and enlarged to make it more useful.

But his lists also helps in selecting restaurants on the street or
following what I think of as a more "advanced" food-pursuit: heading up
the elevators in vaguely marked buildings with little but kana to guide
you. As some have carped about Tokyo, everything interesting is
upstairs somewhere, and can't be seen from the street. Admittedly it
is daunting for those who can't speak the language--which is how I view
myself. Daunting? No, it's downright scary. But I've encountered
nothing but good in the process. No matter what anybody says
(particularly the Japanese) there is no crime in Japan. It doesn't
exist. It exists the way the "Elephant Man" disease exists.

In the process we've headed into "snack bars" which, however much in
the noble but now-humbled geisha tradition, are still joints were there
are 8 women "entertain" and guys are buying expensive "champagne"
(actually soda) for them and there is a tawdry but refined air. No
longer singing or playing board games the not-geisha's are still
flattering and merriment-producing. These were clearlly accidental
wanderings but we were greeted like royalty and had a fabulous time! I
think witth the worst navigational equipment you'll find neither rocky
shores nor sandbars.

Do you know what areas of Kyoto and Tokyo you'll be staying in? That
might help.

Imperial Hotel (Ginza) & Hyatt Regency (not far from Kyoto station?)

Yikes. The Ginza is one of the areas I've not explored in Tokyo because
of (purported) expense and expanse. I've wandered around there but I
feel like I'm in Chicago or LA, so very urban and somewhat cold. Of
course the Imperial Gardens and other fabulous sights are available
there. If you spend time in Asakusa or Ueno you will find many
delightful and humble restaurants. These are the areas we usually
haunt. We also chow-hound it through restaurants in Shinjuku and
Shibuya but not from books. We "walk and gawk": making mental notes,
then return to what looks good. Sometimes it's French or Turkish.
Sometimes it's up-the-middle Japanese cuisine. it's always good.

Relative to accompdations, if circumstances change and an opportunity
to stay at a ryokan pops up, it can be a lot of fun and provide some
atmosphere you might enjoy.

We've never been taken advantage of financially though we
did tab out at about $140 one night--one of the greatest dining
occasions in life: Ken in Morioka. We've never encountered crime nor
the even the fear of it.

Do you have any limitations in your dining? Any at all?

I eat or will try anything. Husband a little more strange food shy,
but a food sport. Wouldn't want a greatly expensive meal each night,
but a couple of worthwhile splurges would be fine.

We eat blind-of-the-bill almost always (a total of over two months on
tour). This in 20+ towns and cities. We have only rarely found a
greatly expensive meal (three times?). Certainly such places can be
found, but we haven't really looked for them. Nor have we looked for
sushi. Mostly we look for izakaya and kappo, where there is the
requisite sashimi and many marvels. Also yakimono restaurants (check
"Agatha" in Kyoto off Kawaramachi Dori, if you get a chance). Also
there is an extremely humble 10-stool joint across the street from the
Miiyako hotel in Kyoto. It's the only restaurant on the block. Take
whatever's good. Our first encounter with fresh-roasted ginko nuts in
the shell with coarse sea salt.

A method we've recently begun developing: We wander in nicer urban
areas until we find a regulation up-scale "bar", no food options. By
this I mean an elegant, place with a discreet sign and a lovely door.
We stick our head in and look for a moment--NEVER be afraid to do this
as you'll just miss too much of Japan. In but a few seconds you'll
know 80% of what you want to know about the place.

Anyway we find a bar that is not over-populated, excellent lighting,
expensive furniture, well-starched and coffed bartenders etc. Clearly
our traditional martini and manhattan will cost us about $10 or $12
bucks. And there is frequently a "table charge" of the same. Don't
balk, it's to keep the riff-raff out. *Sit at the bar*. Sit close
to--not far from--other patrons. We chit-chat with the bartenders in
English, or our broken Japanese. We have gotten into fragmented
Spanish, French and German too!

Frequently people will quiet down when we sit. They are listening to
everything we say to one another. So speak clearly among yourselves and
don't whisper. They all studied English during school, and are hunting
for an opportunity and the courage to engage you in English. Throw as
much Japanese-related musing around. "Nancy, do you remember how to
say 'I'm happy' in Japanese." "I wonder what years Hideyoshi lived."
"Exactly what years *are* showa?" And then you'll hear, "Excuse,
please. May I help you?" This is how it works. The next thing you
know you're finding out about all the coolest places, what's hot,
what's not. A number of times people fought over paying our tab.

After a very casual drink's conclusion we ask for the bartender's
recommendation for a place to dine. He asks what kind of food, and we
say "izakaya, kappo, whatever you think is very Japanese and very
good". And we are quick to point out we have no limits, but want
"something different".

He scratches his head, talks it over with others, somebody gets excited
then he tells us where. On a number of occasions they have walked us
over to the restaurant personally (!), once with an umbrella in the
rain!! On another occasion (Yoshida's Bar in Osaka--bless her!) she
drew us an intricate map. ALL such places could never be found from
the street.


this is such a cool idea and should work in pretty much any city except a
us one


- - By THE WAY

creative is somehow like an outhouse I think.

These idiots.

They want us to CALL AHEAD when we have clients wanting to come to the
little concert hall?

They have yet to tell us who's on duty all during the show for the drunks
that spur of the moment want to show up and come in a taxi, and get home
the same way.

I tell the idiots we have NEVER seen a venue operate in that way (after
sitting in lines in front of the Football Falcon's place, and the
basketball Hawk's place, and a venerable institution that EXPEX limos and
such) and they came back with some crap.

Creative hell, the city is outgrowing itself and blowing every chance to
do it ingelligently and with class.

but i loved your stories and will use some of the advice in future travels

In article
,
marika wrote:

you have some amazingly creative ideas here

Thanks. All born of curiousity and our inability to speak the language!

Long before the current Lebanese horror I had a pill-vial full of pins
with 30 countries' flags in that glovebox. They might as well be a
secret handshake. I never see any American's eyes flit down to note
it--I always see nationals from elsewhere look.

But the americans sure know how to keep the Terror Flags Colors straight.

I don't think so. I don't know any Americans that every gave a ****
about that stuff except the bozos that invented it and attempted to use
us to get us spooked. You can only yell "Fire" in a theatre so many
times before people disregard it. Particularly Americans, I think.

After a very casual drink's conclusion we ask for the bartender's
recommendation for a place to dine. He asks what kind of food, and we
say "izakaya, kappo, whatever you think is very Japanese and very
good". And we are quick to point out we have no limits, but want
"something different".

He scratches his head, talks it over with others, somebody gets excited
then he tells us where. On a number of occasions they have walked us
over to the restaurant personally (!), once with an umbrella in the
rain!! On another occasion (Yoshida's Bar in Osaka--bless her!) she
drew us an intricate map. ALL such places could never be found from
the street.


this is such a cool idea and should work in pretty much any city except a
us one

You think so? That would be a nice thought: that the bartenders the
world over, and their patrons, are dedicated to making sure that
hapless tourists get the best possible opportunity to see their *real*
city.

We've been idly planning a trip to Beirut for the past 3 or 4 years. I
guess I'll have to forego that for another generation. Dammit.

- - By THE WAY

creative is somehow like an outhouse I think.

Well I guess everything is like an outhouse if you explain the simile!

They want us to CALL AHEAD when we have clients wanting to come to the
little concert hall?

Who was that?

They have yet to tell us who's on duty all during the show for the drunks
that spur of the moment want to show up and come in a taxi, and get home
the same way.

Babysitters for the drunks at a concert hall?

I tell the idiots we have NEVER seen a venue operate in that way (after
sitting in lines in front of the Football Falcon's place, and the
basketball Hawk's place, and a venerable institution that EXPEX limos and
such) and they came back with some crap.

Creative hell, the city is outgrowing itself and blowing every chance to
do it ingelligently and with class.

Which city? Tokyo?!?

but i loved your stories and will use some of the advice in future travels

Thanks so much. We learn things the hard way--one mistake at a time!

--
"A Dictionary of Japanese Food, Ingredients & Culture" by Richard Hosking
(Tuttle, '97). All the hints one might need for exploring Japanese food.

"The Sake Handbook" by John Gaunter (Tuttle, '02). An excellent intro and
reference to sake.

marika wrote:

But the americans sure know how to keep the Terror Flags Colors straight.

We aren't due for a terror alert until mid-October, late
September at the earliest.

--Blair
"Happy Election Year!"

In article .com,
Blair P. Houghton wrote:

marika wrote:

But the americans sure know how to keep the Terror Flags Colors straight.

We aren't due for a terror alert until mid-October, late
September at the earliest.

Alerts, sure. But we've officially discarded the color-coded approach
to nameless paranoia.

--
"A Dictionary of Japanese Food, Ingredients & Culture" by Richard Hosking
(Tuttle, '97). All the hints one might need for exploring Japanese food.

"The Sake Handbook" by John Gaunter (Tuttle, '02). An excellent intro and
reference to sake.

On Sun, 06 Aug 2006 00:20:42 -0400, Blair P. Houghton
wrote:


marika wrote:

But the americans sure know how to keep the Terror Flags Colors
straight.

We aren't due for a terror alert until mid-October, late
September at the earliest.

--Blair
"Happy Election Year!"


lol.

In article
,
marika wrote:

Creative hell, the city is outgrowing itself and blowing every chance to
do it ingelligently and with class.

Which city? Tokyo?!?

no here i was complaining about atlanta

Stand in line.

Thanks so much. We learn things the hard way--one mistake at a time!

what's the story there on smoking in bars. is there a movement not to
allow smoking as there is with other cities such as dc and ny?

Jeez, I have no idea. They sure could use it. There were a few places
we went, particularly in Kobe where the smoking in pub-type restaurants
(izakaya) was so over-the-top we had to shower before going to bed and
air our clothes out on the balcony. Even so they stunk for three days.
In some settings it is DAMNED intense.

I know how to avoid cigarette smoke, when given the option, and I don't
always choose to.

Wrong, I guess, but I side with the right of biz to conduct itself when it
knows there's a market for what it has.

Some dum, greedy woman that was a flight attendant started this whole yap
here, because she was 'trapped' in smoky cockpits for over 20 years.

Good for her, I'm more than glad to beg for a few more extra years at
the end of my days.

She could'a done some other job, and lived more simply.

Wench.

As it is, there's a bar start out here as non smoking, but due to low biz,
switched up.

now what.

So, there ya go.

I'm a bigger antiDUI than I am non smoking.

Anybody can do anything the like till their dead. I just hate it
stinking up my clothes or smashing into my friends.

--
Thank you and have a nice day.