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#1
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Starbucks in Austria. "It is just too American for me," she said.
Austria snubs upstart More on the revolt against American "culture"? Starbucks finds little favor in nation that loves tradition By SONYA YEE Los Angeles Times VIENNA, AUSTRIA - It seemed so brash and, to many Viennese, so American when Starbucks arrived three years ago bearing Frappuccinos and caramel macchiatos into this proud capital of coffeehouse culture. The coffee chain established its beachhead on prime real estate across from the famed Hotel Sacher and the Vienna State Opera. And this, said the management, was only the beginning. Starbucks would open a new store at least every month. By 2005, there would be 60 locations across the country. But with 2005 only days away, Starbucks' Austrian empire stands at just eight stores in and around Vienna. That's down from 10; two didn't make it, including one at a high-profile spot by the Naschmarkt, Vienna's beloved central outdoor market. The perceived travails of what one newspaper called the "U.S. paper-cup store" have inspired no small amount of satisfaction at the misfortune of the American firm. "We don't want to burst out in unrestrained coffeehouse chauvinism here," said a recent commentary in the daily Die Presse. "But a little satisfaction that not every standardized global chain can just take over the Naschmarkt is allowed." Starbucks arguably has done little to inspire such gloating. It hasn't driven local coffeehouses out of business. It doesn't advertise and, aside from the hype of its grand opening, has turned out to be relatively unobtrusive. Nevertheless, for some Vienna cafe partisans, the American chain symbolizes the insidious creep of globalization. The traditional coffeehouse, in this view, stands as a noble bulwark against the uniformity brought on by mass culture. "Individuality is the core argument for the coffeehouse," said Tobias Leibetseder, a patron at Cafe Jelinek in Vienna's residential 6th District. Table mate Angelika Karner said she had never been to Starbucks and wasn't planning to do so. "It is just too American for me," she said. The Viennese coffeehouse, almost by definition, offers free newspapers and an oxygen supply severely compromised by cigarette smoke. The coffee is brought to the table — ideally, by a surly, tuxedo-clad waiter — on a small silver tray, accompanied by a glass of water with the coffee spoon balanced on top. Cafe Jelinek is one of thousands of coffeehouses playing a cherished role in the life of the city. For decades, it was run by the Knapps. Guenther took care of the kitchen and made the coffee, but Maria's benevolent dictatorship set the tone. Children, dogs and cell phones were forbidden to disturb the shabby cafe's hushed ambience. A sign posted on the wall above the wood-burning stove informed customers that "whoever is in a hurry will not be served," a decree Frau Knapp had no qualms about enforcing. Beset with hip problems and migraines, Maria Knapp wanted to retire, threatening to consign Jelinek to history. But the Haases and Schiffners, two couples who ran a traditional Austrian restaurant across the street, persuaded her to let them take over. "We always liked the place, and we always wanted to have it," Manfred Haas said. "We also didn't want anyone to destroy it." |
#2
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Hell, A lot of us American's dislike the chain coffeehouse mentality. Why
should I pay $2.50+ for a cup of coffee at Starbucks when a local place is a $1 or $0.89 in my own travel mug? Bill "viking" wrote in message ... Austria snubs upstart More on the revolt against American "culture"? Starbucks finds little favor in nation that loves tradition By SONYA YEE Los Angeles Times VIENNA, AUSTRIA - It seemed so brash and, to many Viennese, so American when Starbucks arrived three years ago bearing Frappuccinos and caramel macchiatos into this proud capital of coffeehouse culture. The coffee chain established its beachhead on prime real estate across from the famed Hotel Sacher and the Vienna State Opera. And this, said the management, was only the beginning. Starbucks would open a new store at least every month. By 2005, there would be 60 locations across the country. But with 2005 only days away, Starbucks' Austrian empire stands at just eight stores in and around Vienna. That's down from 10; two didn't make it, including one at a high-profile spot by the Naschmarkt, Vienna's beloved central outdoor market. The perceived travails of what one newspaper called the "U.S. paper-cup store" have inspired no small amount of satisfaction at the misfortune of the American firm. "We don't want to burst out in unrestrained coffeehouse chauvinism here," said a recent commentary in the daily Die Presse. "But a little satisfaction that not every standardized global chain can just take over the Naschmarkt is allowed." Starbucks arguably has done little to inspire such gloating. It hasn't driven local coffeehouses out of business. It doesn't advertise and, aside from the hype of its grand opening, has turned out to be relatively unobtrusive. Nevertheless, for some Vienna cafe partisans, the American chain symbolizes the insidious creep of globalization. The traditional coffeehouse, in this view, stands as a noble bulwark against the uniformity brought on by mass culture. "Individuality is the core argument for the coffeehouse," said Tobias Leibetseder, a patron at Cafe Jelinek in Vienna's residential 6th District. Table mate Angelika Karner said she had never been to Starbucks and wasn't planning to do so. "It is just too American for me," she said. The Viennese coffeehouse, almost by definition, offers free newspapers and an oxygen supply severely compromised by cigarette smoke. The coffee is brought to the table - ideally, by a surly, tuxedo-clad waiter - on a small silver tray, accompanied by a glass of water with the coffee spoon balanced on top. Cafe Jelinek is one of thousands of coffeehouses playing a cherished role in the life of the city. For decades, it was run by the Knapps. Guenther took care of the kitchen and made the coffee, but Maria's benevolent dictatorship set the tone. Children, dogs and cell phones were forbidden to disturb the shabby cafe's hushed ambience. A sign posted on the wall above the wood-burning stove informed customers that "whoever is in a hurry will not be served," a decree Frau Knapp had no qualms about enforcing. Beset with hip problems and migraines, Maria Knapp wanted to retire, threatening to consign Jelinek to history. But the Haases and Schiffners, two couples who ran a traditional Austrian restaurant across the street, persuaded her to let them take over. "We always liked the place, and we always wanted to have it," Manfred Haas said. "We also didn't want anyone to destroy it." |
#3
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Hell, A lot of us American's dislike the chain coffeehouse mentality. Why
should I pay $2.50+ for a cup of coffee at Starbucks when a local place is a $1 or $0.89 in my own travel mug? Bill "viking" wrote in message ... Austria snubs upstart More on the revolt against American "culture"? Starbucks finds little favor in nation that loves tradition By SONYA YEE Los Angeles Times VIENNA, AUSTRIA - It seemed so brash and, to many Viennese, so American when Starbucks arrived three years ago bearing Frappuccinos and caramel macchiatos into this proud capital of coffeehouse culture. The coffee chain established its beachhead on prime real estate across from the famed Hotel Sacher and the Vienna State Opera. And this, said the management, was only the beginning. Starbucks would open a new store at least every month. By 2005, there would be 60 locations across the country. But with 2005 only days away, Starbucks' Austrian empire stands at just eight stores in and around Vienna. That's down from 10; two didn't make it, including one at a high-profile spot by the Naschmarkt, Vienna's beloved central outdoor market. The perceived travails of what one newspaper called the "U.S. paper-cup store" have inspired no small amount of satisfaction at the misfortune of the American firm. "We don't want to burst out in unrestrained coffeehouse chauvinism here," said a recent commentary in the daily Die Presse. "But a little satisfaction that not every standardized global chain can just take over the Naschmarkt is allowed." Starbucks arguably has done little to inspire such gloating. It hasn't driven local coffeehouses out of business. It doesn't advertise and, aside from the hype of its grand opening, has turned out to be relatively unobtrusive. Nevertheless, for some Vienna cafe partisans, the American chain symbolizes the insidious creep of globalization. The traditional coffeehouse, in this view, stands as a noble bulwark against the uniformity brought on by mass culture. "Individuality is the core argument for the coffeehouse," said Tobias Leibetseder, a patron at Cafe Jelinek in Vienna's residential 6th District. Table mate Angelika Karner said she had never been to Starbucks and wasn't planning to do so. "It is just too American for me," she said. The Viennese coffeehouse, almost by definition, offers free newspapers and an oxygen supply severely compromised by cigarette smoke. The coffee is brought to the table - ideally, by a surly, tuxedo-clad waiter - on a small silver tray, accompanied by a glass of water with the coffee spoon balanced on top. Cafe Jelinek is one of thousands of coffeehouses playing a cherished role in the life of the city. For decades, it was run by the Knapps. Guenther took care of the kitchen and made the coffee, but Maria's benevolent dictatorship set the tone. Children, dogs and cell phones were forbidden to disturb the shabby cafe's hushed ambience. A sign posted on the wall above the wood-burning stove informed customers that "whoever is in a hurry will not be served," a decree Frau Knapp had no qualms about enforcing. Beset with hip problems and migraines, Maria Knapp wanted to retire, threatening to consign Jelinek to history. But the Haases and Schiffners, two couples who ran a traditional Austrian restaurant across the street, persuaded her to let them take over. "We always liked the place, and we always wanted to have it," Manfred Haas said. "We also didn't want anyone to destroy it." |
#4
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Calif Bill writes:
Hell, A lot of us American's dislike the chain coffeehouse mentality. Why should I pay $2.50+ for a cup of coffee at Starbucks when a local place is a $1 or $0.89 in my own travel mug? Why should anyone drink coffee at all? It tastes really bad no matter how it's prepared, since it always has coffee in it. -- Transpose hotmail and mxsmanic in my e-mail address to reach me directly. |
#5
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Calif Bill writes:
Hell, A lot of us American's dislike the chain coffeehouse mentality. Why should I pay $2.50+ for a cup of coffee at Starbucks when a local place is a $1 or $0.89 in my own travel mug? Why should anyone drink coffee at all? It tastes really bad no matter how it's prepared, since it always has coffee in it. -- Transpose hotmail and mxsmanic in my e-mail address to reach me directly. |
#6
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"Mxsmanic" wrote in message ... Calif Bill writes: Hell, A lot of us American's dislike the chain coffeehouse mentality. Why should I pay $2.50+ for a cup of coffee at Starbucks when a local place is a $1 or $0.89 in my own travel mug? Why should anyone drink coffee at all? It tastes really bad no matter how it's prepared, since it always has coffee in it. -- Transpose hotmail and mxsmanic in my e-mail address to reach me directly. As Crocodile Dundee said, "Tastes like ****, but you can live on it". Why would anyone eat liver? The sewage plant of the body. Different tastes for different folks. |
#7
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"Mxsmanic" wrote in message ... Calif Bill writes: Hell, A lot of us American's dislike the chain coffeehouse mentality. Why should I pay $2.50+ for a cup of coffee at Starbucks when a local place is a $1 or $0.89 in my own travel mug? Why should anyone drink coffee at all? It tastes really bad no matter how it's prepared, since it always has coffee in it. -- Transpose hotmail and mxsmanic in my e-mail address to reach me directly. As Crocodile Dundee said, "Tastes like ****, but you can live on it". Why would anyone eat liver? The sewage plant of the body. Different tastes for different folks. |
#8
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Great article. Who would want Starbucks when anywhere else in Vienna is so much better anyways? Glad to see declining infiltration of a US corp's influence into a major part of Vienna's culture. -- Jester ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Jester's Profile: http://www.bigtravelforum.com/member.php?userid=1 View this thread: http://www.bigtravelforum.com/showthread.php?t=1047 http://www.bigtravelforum.com |
#9
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On Tue, 4 Jan 2005 04:42:44 -0600, Jester wrote:
Great article. Who would want Starbucks when anywhere else in Vienna is so much better anyways? Glad to see declining infiltration of a US corp's influence into a major part of Vienna's culture. ....because you can go in and get a quick cup of "coffee" and leave if you#re in a hurry. In a Viennese coffee house you need at least 1/2 hour. Order, get served and drink is quick enough, but trying to pay afterwards can be an ordeal. -- Tim C. |
#10
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On Tue, 04 Jan 2005 12:20:19 +0100, nitram wrote:
On Tue, 4 Jan 2005 12:13:27 +0100, Tim Challenger wrote: On Tue, 4 Jan 2005 04:42:44 -0600, Jester wrote: Great article. Who would want Starbucks when anywhere else in Vienna is so much better anyways? Glad to see declining infiltration of a US corp's influence into a major part of Vienna's culture. ...because you can go in and get a quick cup of "coffee" and leave if you#re in a hurry. In a Viennese coffee house you need at least 1/2 hour. Order, get served and drink is quick enough, but trying to pay afterwards can be an ordeal. It's the same in NL, when we were in a hurry we try to pay when the waiter brings the coffee. In the good old days when Schiphol was on the east side of the airfield, I several times ordered a lunch, it never arrived before the last call for the flight. There's always going to be a market for fast food and drink in places where there are a lot of busy people. Hence the success of the Viennese Starbucks only at such places - eg. the centre of town and major shopping malls. -- Tim C. |
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